Rio La Venta Expedition
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| | Difficulty:POI Raps:0-1
Red Tape:Permit required Shuttle:Required Vehicle:Passenger Watercraft:Yes Rock type:Limestone | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 11 Dec 2021
"Flow was fine - 50cfs at the bridge. A little higher would mean less scraping, but much higher would make the portages more difficult. All, literally |
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| Best season: | Dec-Apr
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16.7592, -93.5261
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Introduction[edit]
This is a packrafting/inner-tubing expedition down a remote section of the La Venta River as it flows down a deep gorge known as "Sacred Canyon". The gorge provides access to multiple caves of great scenery and archaeological interest, including the Cueva del Rio La Venta. This adventure usually takes 3 to 6 days and requires complex logistics.
If you enter from El Aguacero and go to the Malpaso lake, you should allot 4-6 days. At low water it has taken some groups 7 days, but also in as few as 3 days by a group paddling non-stop 12 hours per day. Starting at the lower put-in at Unidad Modelo to the lake can be comfortably done in 3 days. The water flow is less from El Aguacero to around Unidad Modelo, and it picks up significantly around that section. Packrafts are recommended, but many of the local guide companies take their customers down the lower section on truck inner tubes with backpacks tied to them.
Several local commercial adventure companies (Petra Vertical, Xaman, Explora and Ecochiapas) offer Rio La Venta expeditions that may be worth considering. Although they all offer a 'Rio La Venta Expedition', these companies offer different prices, different routes and different options that may or may not fit your expectations. Some of the questions you should ask before you make a reservation:
- Number of days: These companies offer 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 day expeditions. The 3 day targets tourists and may feel too short for seasoned adventurers. But not everyone may want to be paddling for a week either.
- Group size: Trips will require a minimum number of people to make it cost effective. In high season all commercial companies may be too busy with profitable day trips and may not be interested in offering an expedition for a small group. If you have a lot of rafting experience, you might be able to ask the commercial company to arrange the logistics and rent you the gear, but then lead the trip yourself (self-lead).
- Watercraft: Innertubes will move a lot slower than inflatable kayaks or rafts, but you can run inner tubes even in low water conditions. Rafts will be possible only in high water season (usually July-early November).
- Points of interest: Some guides will stop at points of interest along the way to explore them in more depth, others will just zoom down the river without even mentioning them. Cascada La Conchuda, Cueva del Rio La Venta and Arco del Tiempo are all worthy destinations of spending a few extra hours playing around.
- Put-In/Take-out: There are many put-in and take-out options that allow to cover different sections of the 80km long Rio La Venta canyon. Make sure you are aware of the section you will be running. The whole canyon is amazing, but the best part is the stretch from Unidad Modelo put-in to Arco del Tiempo.
- Flow gauge: There is an online flow gauge at the put-in at the Las Flores bridge. Particularly at lower flows, the flow at the end of the river will be many times (5x or more) the flow at the put-in due to tributaries. See the graph here: http://www.mayanwhitewater.com/rivers/chiapas/chiapas-new/dir/laventa.html
The Rio La Venta flow is always uncertain. Water level in the river does not relate to the water level in the Malpaso lake. The flow in the river originates mostly by rains, peaks during the rainy season but falls steadily the subsequent months. From May to July is the monsoon season, it often rains for weeks. After the rain season ends the river runs in high water conditions, usually August to November. Low water season is December to April. When the water is low, the canyon may be quite dry and force a slow progression and/or require multiple portages, even in innertubes. But after heavy rains, even during the dry season, the canyon will present class 3 (or higher) rapids with strainers and siphons, features that may be difficult to negotiate even for experienced teams. In general, you can portage around all the major rapids, but it can be tiring and time consuming. Be prepared for anything! On some rare occasions, unexpected massive rains have been so intense and lasted for so long that they caused the river to raise dramatically and flood the camps, wiping out gear and taking for a ride some of the campers too.
Approach[edit]
The approach will be different according to the put-in location. Some of the options:
- Puente Las Flores highway crossing: If water is high enough, you may put it where the highway crosses over Rio La Venta and paddle down from there.
- Aguacero Waterfall: this is the most popular put-in location and the official start of the La Venta Canyon. To access the river requires climbing down man-made 750 steps. It is a tourist attraction with parking and refreshments at the top.
- La Conchuda Waterfall: a 3h walk down the river from Aguacero, this is one of the most pretty waterfalls in the area. In high water season day rafting trips will start at Aguacero and end here.
- Unidad Modelo put-in: From the farmer village of Unidad Modelo to the put-in is a 3h-4h hike through dense forest. Horses/mules can be hired in town to carry down gear for you.
- Cueva del Rio La Venta exit: There is an access to the river in the vicinity of Cueva del Rio La Venta, local caving club 'El Jaguar' uses this exit when they run Cueva del Rio La Venta through trips.
- General Cardenas put-in: From the town of General Cardenas to the put-in involves a 3h-4h hike and a vertical 100ft rappel. From here, it is a short float without rapids down to Arco del Tiempo.
- Arco del Tiempo: This is where the river goes underground for a short stretch, massive 400ft walls surround the location. During the dry season it is possible to exit ascending up a dry waterfall on river left immediately after the arch. In high water season or after heavy rains this becomes an impassable raging waterfall and the only exit is to float down river. Some trips start rappeling down Arco del Tiempo and then float down on innertubes to La Junta, but this misses the amazing waterfall narrows at General Cardenas put-in, the narrowest and most emblematic part of the canyon (cover pic).
- La Junta: Junta is where Rio La Venta merges with Rio Negro, doubling the river flow. In high water season motorboats bring tourists up to La Junta, in the dry season the reservoir level is low and it is seldom accessible to boats.
Descent[edit]
It takes 4-6+ days to descend the river, depending if you put in at El Aguacero (long trip) or Unidad Modelo (the lower section and best part of the river).
It is possible to go a ways UP Rio la Venta from the lake, by taking a boat to La Junta and paddling up river from there on inner tubes or kayaks. This would be a 1 to 3 day trip with greatly simplified logistics. However, this would NOT cover the best part of the descent -- flow and rapids will often make it impossible to reach Arco del Tiempo going up from La Junta.
IMPORTANTLY, after the first day or so, the river is largely a gorge with VERY spare campsites. In fact, at December water levels, between Cueva del Rio La Venta and Arco del Tiempo, there is literally not a single place big enough for even one tent - only some awkward, slipper boulders. MAKE SURE you plan out a range of campsites in advance, and aim to be camping by mid-afternoon so as not to get caught on the river after dark and having to run/portage scary rapids.
All rapids can be portaged in the dry season (December to April). You do not need to be a whitewater expert to run RLV in this season, but should be comfortable doing small Class III rapids. The portages are numerous, and can be very difficult, carrying your gear over highly uneven and slippery rocks. For this reason a packraft is the recommended vessel, and bring absolutely as little stuff as you truly need - you'll spend about equal time carrying your packraft as you will paddling it. Because the portages are tough and twisting an ankle or short falls are so likely and could turn serious in such a remote place, this trip is surely only for serious adventurers.
Exit[edit]
You can exit at any of the put-in locations, but it will usually require a lot of effort to climb up the canyon with all your camping gear + watercraft gear. Some commercial trips exit at Arco del Tiempo and hike through the jungle for 4h to be picked up by a van. Many would probably prefer to keep floating down the river and be picked up at the lake by a motorboat.
Boat pickup is best at La Junta, but if lake level is low you may have to paddle further downstream to meet your boat, typically all the way to the lake.
There are no facilities or settlements at La Junta. There are two ways to hire a boat to get across Malpaso reservoir:
a) schedule in advance a boat from Raudales (20 miles across the reservoir) to come pick you up at a designated time and location. Make sure you get to the designated location at the expected time but also make sure the boat is going to wait for you if you run late by promising them a good tip for every hour you delay. It is best to pay only 1/3 up front, and 2/3 when they pick you up, to ensure they will actually be there. In high water season motorboats drive tourists up La Junta and you may be able to hitch a ride, but you will not find any during the dry season. If you miss the boat and get stranded, use option b). b) upon paddling to the El Encajonado park ranger station at the edge of the reservoir on river right, the ranger (who should usually be there) will simply take one of your group 2 miles across the reservoir to the small town of Carricel on river left. There they have internet and can call Raudales Malpaso for a boatman. If the ranger station is unoccupied, you can paddle yourselves to Carricel.
Logistics for a self-organized descent (prices updated 2021)[edit]
The descent can be done in self-guided mode by expert people with a good knowledge of white water. There is a river-wide class IV+/V portage downstream that requires significant skill to pass depending on the water level. In the dry season this rapid is easily portaged, and you do not have to run any scary whitewater.
Option 1 (done in Oct 2020):
- Contact Enrique for car shuttle services, a boat shuttle service, safe rental car storage, and hotel logistics.
- Website: https://www.chiapastravelandtours.com/ - Whatsapp:+52 9616089135 (my primary contact method) - Phone: +52 9616392616 - Email: [email protected]
- Have Enrique pick you up from Tuxtla Gutierrez Airport
- Stay with Enrique at his hotel. He is English and Spanish speaking which is very helpful.
- Have Enrique drive you to the Biosphere Reserve Selva Ocote to pick up a river permit
- Drive to El Aguacera - put in (apx.3000 pesos for 3ppl)
- Descend
- Contact Enrique via your satellite device and let him know that you made it to the El Encajonado Ranger Station (river take-out)
- Enrique will take you across the lake via motorboat (apx.3000 pesos for up to 3ppl). Make sure he takes you to get some grilled fish!
- Drive you back to Tuxtla Gutierrez (apx. 3800 pesos for up to 3ppl).
Enrique can accommodate more individuals but the cost will vary
Option 2 (done in Jan 2018, and Dec 2020):
- Book a room in advance at Casa del Jardin. The owner Romeo is very nice, speaks English, and will help you with the logistics. It is cheaper to book one night through Airbnb and then keep in touch with Romeo for the other nights. The hostel is basic but it has a lot of trees and nice sitting areas with a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. There are many rooms and your group will likely be able to have its own room. Be ready to use ear plugs for some noise/music at night. You can also book nicer hotels (Fiesta Inn/Marriott/Hilton) for only $10 more a night and try to contact Romeo for the transportation, although unsure if he would willing to do that if you're not his guests.
- Arrive at Tuxtla airport and get a taxi to the hostel (300 pesos) - no need to rent a car. You can also arrange with Romeo to be picked-up initially at the airport (600 pesos).
- Romeo or his brother can give up to six people a ride in his Chevy Suburban or Van to Aguacero put-in (1.5 hours, 1300 pesos).
- You also need to get a permit to enter El Aguacero from Bioshpere Reserve Selva Ocote in the town of Ocozocoautla which is on the way to the put in and sign waivers. When you arrive at El Aguacero you will by permits and get a wrist band (30 pesos/person). Keep the wrist band to show the ranger on the lake as proof of payment.
- Descend the river.
- When you arrive at the El Encajonado ranger station, Arulfo, the person in charge of the ranger station, can help you in getting a boat (lancha) that will bring your group and gear 20mi across the reservoir to Malpaso boatdocks (~45min, 3000 pesos). Arulfo will offer to take one of your group in his motorboat canoe to his town of Carricel (15min, 200 pesos), where there is internet and cell phone reception. Be ready to call other boatmen (Elias +529681072074; Ricardo +52968 108 6198). In Jan 2018 Arulfo only knew one boatman, who was not available until the next day, and we would have had to spend a night in Carricel if we hadn't had the other phone numbers.
- When your group arrives at the boatdocks in Malpaso, there are 2 restaurants, you can have a lunch/dinner there and they can arrange a private micro-bus (colectivo) to bring back to the hostel in Tuxla (2 hours, 1800 pesos), or public colectivo (80 pesos/person). If you want more restaurant options in Malpaso go to the city center.
- Romeo can give you a ride back to the airport (360 pesos).
Basically, reserve a room in Tuxtla for the night you fly into town. The next morning, head to the river. On your last day on the river, schedule a boat pick up in the morning to meet with a taxi in Raudales to take you back to your hotel in Tuxtla. Whoever you arrange the boat with should be able to get you a taxi reserved in a advance. The boat, as of December 2021, was 2500 pesos, and the taxi back was another 1500 pesos.
Beta sites[edit]
- "Mayan Whitewater: Chiapas & Belize" book has a kilometer-by-kilometer description of the rapids and descent
Wikiloc.com : Recorrido Rio La Venta
SummitPost.org : Cañón Río La Venta- Official La Venta Page
- Chiapas Turismo - Cañón Río La Venta
- Chiapas Turismo - El Aguacero
- - Chiapas Travel And Tours for all of your logistics
Trip reports and media[edit]
- Rio La Venta Packraft Mission
- Rio La Venta Expedition
- Río La Venta, Chiapas, México | Kayak Expedition
Flash flood - Dec 2015[edit]
One guided group in late Dec 2015 was caught at their beach campsite immediately below El Arco del Tiempo by floodwaters on river right. The site is high enough above water level to only rarely get inundated, and there are ledges above the campsite to climb up into old growth trees (safe from floodwaters), but the group, for whatever reason, decided to paddle downstream in search of even higher ground. Despite presumably knowing that this stretch of the river is a wall-to-wall gorge, they set off and then hung onto the rock wall on river right just about the big rapid for nearly 24 hours until they couldn't hold on anymore and were swept downstream through Class 5 rapids below. They all lived, although one of them wasn't found for 2 days, naked, his clothing completely stripped off from the flash flood. Helicopters were used in the rescue. All personal gear, tents, backpacks, inner tubes, food, etc. were lost. So don't go when heavy rain is forecast.
Background[edit]
Original information provided by Jef Levin
Red tape[edit]
As of 2020 a permit is required to enter El Aguacero which can be obtained from Bioshpere Reserve Selva Ocote in the town of Ocozocoautla.
Beta sites[edit]
Trip reports and media[edit]
https://www.lukaseddy.com/rio-la-venta-packrafting-expedition