French rating
The French Federations ("Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade" and "Fédération française de spéléologie") created a rating system for canyons & caves that has become the standard in Europe and the rest of the world that follows the French canyoning school.
Format[edit]
A standard French rating [1], such as v3a3 III, consists of three pieces of information regarding the technical requirements, aquatic challenges, and time commitment of the route. Many of these ratings are subjective and different authors may select different ratings.
- Siphon: a constricted passage flooded with water that requires to hold the breath in order to traverse. Also called "sieve" or "sump".
- Technical jump/toboggan: dangerous jump/toboggan with problematic start, trajectory and/or landing that may have disastrous consequences if not executed properly.
The FFME lists the following assumptions in the grading of canyons:
- An average water flow for the usual season that the canyon is normally descended
- Determined by a group of 5 people, who have not been in the canyon before, but have suitable experience and skills to descend the canyon
- The level of difficult is set by at least one of the situations in the table being found in the canyon. (eg. if ANY of the v4 qualities exist at any point in the canyon, the canyon is rated v4)
- The jumps are considered optional
Vertical Difficulty[edit]
Simplified Version[edit]
The number following the 'v' in the French rating denotes the degree of technical skill (especially rope work) required to complete the canyon successfully.
- v1Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Very Easy: Rope normally unnecessary for progress. No climbing or down-climbing.
- v2Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Easy: Easy rappels up to 10m (30ft). Easy climbing or down-climbing with little exposure.
- v3Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Little Difficult: Simple rappels up 30m (100ft) in weak water flow. Potentially tricky hand-line traverses and down-climbs.
- v4Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Difficult: Big rappels of more than 30m (100ft) in weak to moderate flow. Bottom of rappel out of sight or in turbulent pools. Simple multi-stage rappels. Moderate risk of getting ropes stuck. Exposed climbs.
- v5Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Quite Difficult: Difficult rappels in moderate to strong water flow. Multi-stage rappels with hanging stations or redirects. Rope recovery difficult. Difficult and/or exposed climbs.
- v6Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Very Difficult / Exposed: Very difficult rappels in very strong water flow with possible hydraulics or siphons at the bottom. Awkward rappels stations, difficult traverses, exposed and difficult climbs.
- v7Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Extremely Difficult / Very Exposed: Extremely difficult rappels in very strong water flow with powerful hydraulics or siphons at the bottom. Extremely difficult or risky climbs.
Full Specification[edit]
The table below is based on a translation of the full FFME specification from French to English. Some unit conversions have been added, but the original text remains unmodified. To improve clarity and facilitate comparison, the information has been reorganized into a table format. The column headings "Exposure," "Rope Work," and "Vertical Flow" are not part of the original specification; they have been added to aid in understanding and comparison.
Rating | Exposure | Rope Work | Vertical Flow |
---|---|---|---|
v1 Very Easy | • No climbing or down climbing. | • No rappels, rope normally unnecessary for progress. | |
v2 Easy | • Easy climbing and down climbing with little exposure. | • Rappel anchors are very easily reached. • Rappels are very easy, less than 10m (33ft). |
|
v3 Little Difficult | • Climbing moves to 3c (5.4). A little exposure, which may require the use of a rope. | • Setting hand lines is easy. • Rappel anchors are easily reached. • Rappels are easy, less than 30m (99ft). • Rappels are separated by enough room to regroup. |
• Low vertical flow. • Rappels land in pools with calm water. |
v4 Difficult | • Climbing moves to 4c or A0 (5.6). • Exposed and/or requires belaying and protection. |
• Setting hand lines is difficult and delicate. • Rough rock edges requiring rope wear management. • Rappel anchors are difficult to reach and/or rappels greater than 30m (99ft). • Multi-pitch rappels with relatively spacious re-belay stations. |
• Low to moderate vertical flow that can begin to cause imbalance or entrapment. • Rappels with obscured sections and/or landing pools. • Landing pools have current. |
v5 Quite Difficult | • Exposed climbing moves up to 5c or A1 (5.9). • Canyon surface is very slippery and/or has significant obstacles. |
• Multi-pitch rappels may have hanging re-belays. • Retrieving the rope is difficult or must be done while swimming. |
• Medium to high vertical flow. • Crossing the flow requires correct route selection and balance. • Requirement to cross pools with current during the descent. |
v6 Very Difficult / Exposed | • Exposed climbing moves to 6a or A2 (5.10). • Canyon surface exceptionally slippery and/or loose. |
• Setting hand lines is very difficult and very delicate. • Rappel anchors are very difficult to reach. • Requirement to build advanced and/or delicate natural anchors. |
• Strong to very strong vertical flow. • Sustained waterfalls. • Crossing the flow is very difficult, requiring effective route selection and/or balance. • Rappel landing pools are turbulent and/or have significant current. |
v7 Extremely Difficult / Very Exposed | • Exposed climbing moves greater than 6a or A2 (5.10+). • Limited visibility of route and frequent obstacles. • Control of breathing: sections where you must hold your breath. |
• Very strong to extremely strong vertical flow. • Very sustained waterfalls that lead into one another without a gap. • Crossing the flow is extremely difficult; requiring anticipation and specific rope management, maneuver, balance, support, and pace. • Requirement to move through powerful current at the end of a rappel or rappel landing in a very turbulent pool with powerful current. |
Aquatic Difficulty[edit]
Simplified Version[edit]
The number following the 'a' in the French rating denotes the type of challenge presented by water in the canyon.
- a1Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Very Easy: Dry or walking in calm water that will require no mandatory swims, jumps or slides.
- a2Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Easy: Calm water. It may require swims of up to 10m (30ft), jumps of up to 3m (10ft) or easy toboggans.
- a3Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Little Difficult: Weak current. It may require swims of up to 30m (100ft), jumps of up to 5m (15ft) or moderate toboggans.
- a4Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Difficult: Moderate current. It may require prolonged immersion in water, jumps of up to 8m (25ft), long and steep toboggans or easy siphons up to 1m (3ft).
- a5Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Quite Difficult: Strong current with avoidable water hazards. It may require prolonged immersion in cold water, jumps of up to 10m (30ft), technical jumps up to 8m or easy siphons up to 2m (6ft).
- a6Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Very Difficult / Exposed: Very strong current with unavoidable water hazards. It may require jumps of up to 14m (45ft), technical jumps up to 8m or easy siphons up to 2m (6ft).
- a7Property "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page. Extremely Difficult / Very Exposed: Extremely dangerous water hazards that will be difficult to overcome. It may require jumps over 14m (45ft), technical jumps over 10m (30ft) or technical siphons with strong current or poor visibility.
Full Specification[edit]
The table below is based on a translation of the full FFME specification from French to English. Some unit conversions have been added, but the original text remains unmodified. To improve clarity and facilitate comparison, the information has been reorganized into a table format. The column headings "Current," "Jumps," and "Hydraulics" are not part of the original specification; they have been added to aid in understanding and comparison.
Rating | Current | Jumps | Hydraulics |
---|---|---|---|
a1 Very Easy | • No water or calm water. • Swimming optional. |
||
a2 Easy | • Swims less than 10m (33ft) in calm water. | • Simple jumps less than 3m (10ft). • Short, low angled slides. |
|
a3 Little Difficult | • Swims less than 30m (99ft) in calm water. • Slight current in places. |
• Simple jumps between 3 and 5m (10 and 16ft). • Long or moderately angled slides. |
|
a4 Difficult | • Prolonged immersion in cold water. • Moderate current in places. |
• Simple jumps between 5 and 8m (16 and 26ft). • Jumps with difficult trajectory and/or landing of less than 5m (16ft). • Large or steep slides. |
• Siphons of less than 1m (3ft) in length and/or depth. |
a5 Quite Difficult | • Prolonged immersion in cold water resulting in substantial heat loss. • Current strong enough to affect a swimmer’s path. |
• Simple jumps between 8 and 10m (26 and 33ft). • Jumps with difficult trajectory and/or landing of 5 to 8m (16 and 26ft). |
• Hydraulics (eddies, recirculation, holes) may trap a canyoneer briefly. • Large siphons up to 2m (6.5ft) in length and/or depth. |
a6 Very Difficult / Exposed | • Moderate current that makes swimming path or stopping point difficult. | • Simple jumps between 10 and 14m (33 and 46ft). • Jumps with difficult trajectory and/or landing of 5 to 8m (16 and 26ft). |
• Hydraulics may trap a canyoneer for a moderate period. • Siphon up to 3m (10ft) in depth and/or length. • Technical siphon up to 1m deep, with possible current. |
a7 Extremely Difficult / Very Exposed | • Strong current makes swimming path or stopping point extremely difficult. | • Simple jumps greater than 14m (46ft). • Jumps with difficult trajectory and/or landing greater than 10m (33ft). |
• Hydraulics may trap a canyoneer for a prolonged period. • Siphons over 3m (10ft) in length and/or depth. • Technical and committing siphon, more than 1m (3ft) tall, with current or no visibility. |
Duration and/or Commitment Rating[edit]
The roman numerals in the French rating indicates commitment/duration. DURATION is approximately how long it will take the entire canyon trip for a typical group to complete. COMMITMENT is used to distinguish what canyons can be easily escaped in case of flood or medical emergency. Most books and websites use this numeral to indicate commitment level ONLY, while specifying separately the duration for approach, descent and exit in hours/minutes.
Note: Duration is given in "Total Time" which includes the all three sections of a canyoneering route: approach, descent, and exit (return).
- IProperty "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page.: DURATION: A Few Hours [Less than 2 hours] COMMITMENT: Able to get out of a flood quickly. Escape is easy throughout the canyon.
- IIProperty "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page.: DURATION: Half a Day [Between 2-4 hours] COMMITMENT: Able to get out of a flood in less than 15 minutes. Escape takes up to 30 minutes.
- IIIProperty "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page.: DURATION: Full Day [Between 4-8 hours] COMMITMENT: Able to get out of a flood in less than 30 minutes. Escape takes up to 1 hour.
- IVProperty "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page.: DURATION: Long Day [Between 8 hours - 1 day] COMMITMENT: Able to get out of a flood in less than 1 hour. Escape takes up to 2 hours.
- VProperty "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page.: DURATION: Overnight [1-2 days] COMMITMENT: Able to get out of a flood in less than 2 hours. Escape takes up to 4 hours.
- VIProperty "Allows value" is a declarative property and can only be used on a property or category page.: DURATION: Multi-Day [2 or more days] COMMITMENT: Getting out of a flood takes more than 2 hours. Escape requires more than 4 hours.
Rating | Duration | Commitment |
---|---|---|
I | • Total time less than 2 hours. | • Able to get out of a flood quickly. • Escape is easy throughout the canyon. |
II | • Total time is between 2 and 4 hours. | • Able to get out of a flood in less than 15 minutes. • Escape takes up to 30 minutes. |
III | • Total time is between 4 and 8 hours. | • Able to get out of a flood in less than 30 minutes. • Escape takes up to 1 hour. |
IV | • Total time between 8 hours and 1 day. | • Able to get out of a flood in less than 1 hour. • Escape takes up to 2 hours. |
V | • Total time is between 1 and 2 days. | • Able to get out of a flood in less than 2 hours. • Escape takes up to 4 hours. |
VI | • Total time is more than 2 days. | • Getting out of a flood takes more than 2 hours. • Escape requires more than 4 hours. |
Quality Rating[edit]
An optional star system indicates the quality/beauty/fun factor of a canyon. 0 stars through to 4 stars.
Rating | Description |
---|---|
★ | Good canyons that are worth the effort required to descend. |
★★ | Canyons of above average quality that are worth returning to several times. |
★★★ | The highest quality canyons, with an excellent mix of good access, beauty, fun and challenge. |
★★★★ | World Class canyons. |