Lemon Squeezer
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| | Difficulty:Cave 3A I (v4a1 III) Raps:1, max ↨140ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:Passenger Rock type:Sandstone | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Best season: | Best in Spring and Fall, Hot in Summer
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38.9806, -108.6225
38.9888, -108.6174
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Introduction[edit]
The Rough Canyon Lemon Squeezer in Bangs SRMA is a very fun cave / upclimb / scramble, which is close to the Bangs Special Recreation Management Area (SRMA) Trailhead. Bring a headlamp for some of the dark spaces in this unique fissure.
Approach[edit]
Park at the Bangs Canyon Trailhead and hike down Rough Canyon (left at the junction with the Mica Mine Trail). Stop on the trail at two large trees, where it is possible to see a big scratched "X" at the start of the Lemon Squeezer crack. Depart the trail and hike a short distance up to the start of the scramble.
Cave Scramble & Descent[edit]
There are several variations in the narrow cave system, but eventually they all top out by a tree that can be used for a 140' exit rappel.
Alternatively, a spicier downclimb move with high consequence can be done, which allows for either:
- further exploration into additional cracks above and a very, very narrow Iron Lung crawlway, or
- a gully downclimb exit nearest the wall (DCR), which does not require a rope.
- Note: a woman may have died trying this downclimb after the rappel. See the links below.
Instead of rappelling, an option could be reversing the crack system back down to the entrance.
Exit[edit]
Follow use trails downhill to the trail. Hike the trail back to the Trailhead Parking.
Red tape[edit]
Beta sites[edit]
Summit Post Rough Canyon Lemon Squeezer
Stan Wagon with details about a longer route
Stan Wagon more details about the Iron Lung super-tight section above the exit rappel
41-year-old hiker falls 60 feet to her death in Colorado canyon
There is a memorial plaque a short way uphill from the bottom of the rappel, which might refer to the person who fell. The plaque is directly below the "scary," high-consequence downclimb move beyond the rappel tree.
YouTube 16min video The Lemon Squeezer! Solo Class 5 Caving (4K UHD) Shows Rough Canyon when it is rarely flowing in the spring.
It is not necessary to traverse the knife edge as indicated @7:08. It is possible to upclimb safely behind the knife edge by the balcony.
The "scary," high-consequence downclimb is mentioned and shown @13:52.
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Note: There are several other adventures with the name Lemon Squeezer in the area, specifically a climb called the Devil's Kitchen Lemon Squeezer with a couple of old John Otto era carriage bolts. This 5.4 climb even has a "Lime Squeezer" chicken-out option.
Trip reports and media[edit]
Apr 2025: photos, kml and text added. Ira Lewis, Sean Yarborough, Carl Bern, Duane & Lyle
