Lomatium Canyon
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| | Difficulty:3A II (v3a1 II) Raps:2, max ↨120ft
Red Tape:Permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 11 Mar 2023
"-. ===CONDITIONS===. Anchors: Both of the anchors in Lomatium are bolted. Drop one has chains and drop two has webbing. Both anchors are in |
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| Best season: | Mar-Nov
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38.7471, -109.5601
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WaterflowIntroduction[edit]
Contrary to popular belief, Arches National Park does not prohibit the publication of beta for the Fiery Furnace. However, published beta for canyoneering routes in this area remains scarce for two primary reasons:
1 Complexity of the Terrain The Fiery Furnace is a labyrinth of intricate fins and spires, making navigation particularly challenging. GPS accuracy in this area is often unreliable, rendering it nearly impossible to provide consistently useful beta. While GPS devices technically function within the Furnace, the dense concentration of towering fins, walls, and crevices creates significant positional errors. For instance, within just 20 lateral feet, the elevation can shift dramatically multiple times. As a result, a GPS device may indicate that you are on one side of a fin when you are actually on the other side, or even on top of it.
2 Sensitivity of the Environment The Fiery Furnace is the most protected and controlled area within Arches National Park. The National Park Service aims to balance public access with the preservation of this fragile ecosystem. Many canyoneers are understandably cautious about drawing attention to the area, as increased visitation by novices or unprepared individuals could lead to:
- Environmental degradation.
- Damage to the unique formations.
- A rise in rescue operations.
There is a real concern that these impacts could prompt the Park Service to impose restrictions or even ban canyoneering in the Fiery Furnace altogether. This concern is a major reason why the canyoneering community tends to remain discreet about publishing beta for this area.
Sharing Information Responsibly[edit]
Although the Park Service does not explicitly prohibit the publication of beta, it is important to approach the sharing of information about the Fiery Furnace with care. By doing so, we help protect this special area and ensure its accessibility for future generations of canyoneers.
To encourage good practices, an attempt has been made to outline the canyoneering routes in this area. However, due to the labyrinthine nature of the terrain, many may still find it difficult to navigate solely based on published beta. As a result, a tradition has emerged in the canyoneering community for individuals experienced with these routes to lead others through the routes for their first time.
By adhering to these principles, we can help preserve the beauty and accessibility of the Fiery Furnace for years to come.
Notes On Using a GPS in the Furnace[edit]
Navigating the Furnace with a GPS is not impossible, but it is also not easy for everyone to do. If you have the necessary skills and preparation you may be able to us a GPS. Here are the key considerations:
Terrain Awareness: You must be proficient in visually interpreting the terrain and understanding your surroundings. This includes recognizing which areas are traversable and maintaining a clear sense of your position relative to the landscape.
Satellite-Image Base Map: A satellite-image base map is essential, as traditional topographic maps are ineffective in the Furnace's complex and dynamic environment. You'll need to compare visible features, such as canyon walls, to the map image to pinpoint your location.
Relative Positioning: GPS devices provide a general location but may not show your precise position. For instance, you could be on one side of a rock fin while the GPS indicates a different location. This is why a satellite-image base map is critical—it helps you visualize the terrain accurately to use as a check against what the GPS is indicating. Topographic lines alone are insufficient due to the Furnace’s dense and rapidly changing landscape.
Approach[edit]
As mentioned, the Fiery Furnace is a natural labyrinth, making detailed route descriptions of limited use. The two known canyoneering routes in the Fiery Furnace are Lomatium and Krill, often completed together. However, it is possible to do them separately. This beta describes the standard approach to Lomatium, which concludes near the start of the approach to Krill. At that point, you can either continue to Krill or exit the Furnace. The exit route follows the ranger-led tour path, which also serves as the approach for Krill if doing that route alone.
Lomatium Approach[edit]
From the parking lot you will begin the approach via the Ranger-lead Hiking Tour Route. The Ranger-lead tour follows a counter-clockwise route through the Fiery Furnace. You will notice, from the parking lot, two trails, one heading south east and one heading north.
- Northern Section: The endpoint of the ranger-led tour loop.
- Southern Section: The starting point for the ranger-led tour, which loops counterclockwise through the Fiery Furnace.
For the Lomatium approach you can take either trail, but it is most efficient to take the Northern Trail and follow the ranger-led route in reverse (clockwise). Regardless of the direction/path you take the goal is to reach the reach the center of the Furnace at the Kissing Turtles Crossroads. From there you will depart the Ranger-Lead tour route and head northward.
Navigating to the Black Wall
- From the Kissing Turtles Crossroads, head north along the base of a large fin on the east side—a relatively flat “hallway.”
- At a certain point begin upclimbing through the fins to the top of the Furnace. This section involves numerous fins, cracks, and turns, but the natural flow of the terrain typically guides you in the correct direction.
- Look for the Black Wall, a slightly darker section of the eastern fin that features a slightly bowled weakness. This requires a short, low fifth-class climb to a wide shelf at the top of the wall. While not particularly black, it is distinguishable from surrounding rock by its slightly darker hue. This is not an overly tall feature, but there is some degree of exposure should you slip and fall.
- Partner assistance is helpful and once one person reaches the shelf they can use a rope to assist others up.
- Avoid attempting this climb in wet, dusty, icy, or other slippery conditions—it can become extremely difficult or even impassable.
- After ascending the Black Wall, head south along the shelf until you find a small crack in the fin. Use this crack to climb to the top of the fin.
On Top of the Fin
- Once on top of the fin enjoy the views. Take a look to the east and take note of a sandy area below your current location and the next fin. You will eventually make our way there.
- Travel north along the top of the fin to a downclimbable crack/chimney.
- If you look around you may find a small hidden arch near the top of the crack may help confirm you’re in the right spot. (Note that while the arch faces south, your downclimb faces north.)
Reaching the Sandy Area
- After the downclimb, you will notice there are no more fins to the north and the terrain is more open.
- You will now make a U-turn to traveling north-to-east-to-south navigate around the base of, and through, several fins.
- You will have to find a way through the rock and fins to make this U-turn and there are a few ways to do so.
- The goal is to make your way to the sandy area you identified earlier.
- Just beyond the sandy area lies a drainage cutting diagonally southeast through several fins.
The Diagonal Drainage As you navigate through this section, you’ll encounter the three key obstacles.
- V-Slot Changeover
- Follow the drainage southeast to a crack forming a distinct “V” at the top.
- Use friction moves or a controlled jump to enter the V-slot; The holds on the walls are minimal, so partner assistance can be helpful. Once inside the slot, the footing is more stable.
- You’ll enter the slot facing south into the "V"; but, once in the slot, you'll downclimb towards northward to the center of the diagonal drainage. Thus the name for this obstacle.
- The Rabbit Hole
- Continue until reaching a steep, bowl-shaped depression. Move down canyon-right behind a large rock and through loose boulders.
- Locate the Rabbit Hole, a passage for crawling through and downclimbing. Take your time to find the correct opening.
- Downclimb and Sandy Drainage
- After exiting the Rabbit Hole, Proceed to a small downclimb that may require partner assistance. Anticipate a pool of ankle-deep water at the bottom.
- Follow the sandy drainage as it curves south. This is sandy and brushy but easy to follow.
- When the fins open to the east, follow the drainage westward to the cliff's edge and the anchor bolts for the first rappel.
Alternative Approach[edit]
Alternatively, it may be possible to access the Lomatium by skirting around much of the fins to the north (top) and east of the Fiery Furnace. This way misses much of the awe-inspiring scenery, but is quicker and does not involve any scrambling or exposure.
Krill Approach[edit]
Note: You can avoid Lomatium altogether and head straight to Krill by taking the main trail, the one the ranger-led hike uses, which is well-worn and marked with directional signs, for about 15 minutes. At one of the "dead end" signs, take the spur to Skull Arch. From Skull Arch, continue northerly and scramble up the boulder field. This is also the exit for Lomatium if doing only that descent.
Few sections in the Furnace are slightly wider and feel more canyon-like. One such area lies between the last rappel of Lomatium and Skull Arch. When exiting Lomatium and heading down the natural drainage, you’ll pass a "side canyon" (if you can call it that) with a large boulder pile on your right. If you stand at the base of Skull Arch and look northward, this rubble-strewn side canyon will be directly ahead. This boulder field marks the approach to Krill.
Approach to Krill The approach begins with a steep climb through the boulder field. This section involves crawling around, under, and through rocks. While the fall exposure is minimal, some moves can feel awkward. Partner assistance is crucial here, as not everyone will find this terrain comfortable.
- Begin with a steep climb through the boulder field, crawling around, under, and through rocks. Partner assistance is crucial for awkward moves.
- At the top, navigate west between two fins to a flat, rounded spot marking a break in the west fin.
- From the flat spot, head south to a small slot and chimney through it until it ends.
- Exit the slot westward by lunging across and scrambling up the rounded surface using friction.
- Continue south into another slot. Look for a boulder pile and rabbit hole requiring a downclimb. Progress as the slot narrows.
- Shimmy through tight constrictions until the canyon opens into easier terrain.
- Reach a downward-sloping shelf leading to the anchor point. Ensure cautious footing, especially on sandy or wet surfaces. Rope up and belay the first person to the anchor if necessary.
Descent[edit]
Lomatium[edit]
Lomatium consists of two rappels connected together by an impressive "hallway." Once down the first rappel there is only one way to travel, south down the hallway, to the second anchor.
- R1: 120 ft - Anchored from two bolts with chains.
- R2: 70? ft - Anchored from two bolts. There is usually ankle-deep water at the bottom of this rappel but the water typically can be avoided with a little maneuvering.
Krill (aka Belly of the Whale)[edit]
The Krill route features a single rappel into a dark chamber, known as the “Belly of the Whale.” This free-hanging rappel is anchored by three aged pitons. Midway through the descent, the chamber flares out, resembling the interior of a whale’s belly, giving the route its name.
Once you complete the rappel and retrieve your ropes, continue downslope. You’ll encounter a 40-foot section of sloped rock. While it appears to require a rappel, it can be carefully downclimbed using body friction. If necessary, set up an anchor for a rappel or assist everyone but the last person.
- R1: 120? ft - Anchored from three old pitons.
Exit[edit]
Exit towards the south by joining up to the main ranger-led / self-guided tour route.
Lomatium-Only Exit[edit]
After completing the second rappel of Lomatium, continue walking south (passing the rubble-filled "side canyon" approach to Krill) towards Skull Arch, one of the most remarkable formations in the Fiery Furnace. Take a moment here to appreciate its unique structure before continuing.
Resume your path southward down the main drainage. While there are a few easy obstacles to navigate, staying within the most obvious path of travel and avoiding side canyons and alcoves will keep you on course. Fortunately, the most intuitive path is also the correct one to follow. Continue onward making your way to the main drainage of the ranger-led tour route.
Krill Exit[edit]
Navigating from here to the main drainage—part of the ranger-led tour route—can be challenging. The area is a complex network of fins, cracks, crevices, and slots, with multiple potential paths. Some will lead through, while others may dead-end. Use good judgment and avoid descending into any features your team cannot reverse.
While the general direction trends downward toward the main drainage, expect to scramble up and over obstacles as you make your way south. Take your time, assess each route carefully, and don't drop into anything you cannot reverse. Continue untill you reach the main drainage of the ranger-led tour route.
Main Drainage of the Ranger-Led Tour Route[edit]
One in the main drainage it will eventually turn westward. Along this section, you will encounter some rocky obstacles and narrow cracks that require downclimbing. Due to the complex, labyrinthine nature of the Fiery Furnace, describing this part of the route in detail is difficult. However, your best guide is the natural watercourse that winds through this area. This sandy, distinct path is easy to recognize, although you may need to leave it briefly to bypass rocky obstacles.
At some point, you will need to leave the watercourse and head up a well-traveled, rocky path to the west that leads back to the parking lot. Be cautious—this turn is easy to miss. If you find yourself heading south through multiple twists and turns, you have likely passed the turnoff.
Once you are on the rocky path, it will gradually transition into a defined trail. This trail corresponds to the eastern trail described earlier that leads from the parking lot.
Red tape[edit]
Permits for Self-Guided access to the Fiery Furnace are required to enter the Fiery Furnace and a reservation for a permit must be obtained through Recreation.gov. A physical permit will need to be picked up from the visitor center and each person in your group must be present for an 8-minute orientation and safety video followed by a 5-minute ranger talk before you can receive the actual permit. Permits can be picked up either the day before or the day of your trip at the visitor center. The visitor center hours change seasonally so check with the park's website for current hours of operation. There are no special allotments for canyoneers but the park will want to know if you are using ropes or not. Permits are $10 per person with a group-size limit of 6 people. Permit reservations can be obtained through Recrecation.gov up to 7 days in advance and often sell out.
In addition to these "self-guided" access the Park offers Ranger-led tours through the Fiery Furnace at 9:00 and 1:30 daily. These Ranger-led tours are offered seasonally so you'll need to check with the park to see if they are currently being offered or not. Group size for the ranger-led hikes was 14. There are small, unobtrusive arrows marking the direction that the ranger-led route travels. Anyone can follow these arrows--assuming they can find them--but if you are on a self-guided permit and encounter a ranger-led tour you are not allowed to follow the tour but are required to give them distance and not bug the ranger with questions. Signs marked "dead-end" indicate a spur to a special geological feature is that way, such as Skull Arch. These are not to be missed and worth the short hikes required. You can then return the way you came on the spur and rejoin the main well-worn path.
Beta sites[edit]
Super Amazing Map : Lomatium Canyon
