Lomatium Canyon
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| | Difficulty:3A II (v3a1 II) Raps:2, max ↨120ft
Red Tape:Permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 7 May 2025
"This was our first time in the Fiery Furnace but we could find our way in both Lomatium and Krill thanks to the detailed route descriprion. Both canyo |
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| Best season: | Mar-Nov
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38.7471, -109.5601
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WaterflowIntroduction[edit]
Lomatium is one of two well-known canyoneering routes in the Fiery Furnace. This route is frequently combined with the other well-known route, Krill (aka Belly of the Whale), but both routes can be done independently. To keep things clear and organized this page details the beta for Lomatium while a separate page details the route for Krill.
Fiery Furnace Beta and Conservation Considerations[edit]
Contrary to popular belief, Arches National Park does not prohibit the publication of beta for the Fiery Furnace. However, published beta for canyoneering routes in this area remains scarce for two primary reasons:
1 Complexity of the Terrain The Fiery Furnace is a labyrinth of intricate fins and spires, making navigation particularly challenging. GPS accuracy in this area is often unreliable, rendering it nearly impossible to provide consistently useful beta. While GPS devices technically function within the Furnace, the dense concentration of towering fins, walls, and crevices creates significant positional errors. For instance, within just 20 lateral feet, the elevation can shift dramatically multiple times. As a result, a GPS device may indicate that you are on one side of a fin when you are actually on the other side, or even on top of it.
2 Sensitivity of the Environment The Fiery Furnace is the most protected and controlled area within Arches National Park--Rangers regularly patrol in the Furnace. The National Park Service aims to balance public access with the preservation of this fragile ecosystem. Many canyoneers are understandably cautious about drawing attention to the area, as increased visitation by novices or unprepared individuals could lead to:
- Environmental degradation.
- Damage to the unique formations.
- A rise in rescue operations.
There is a real concern that these impacts could prompt the Park Service to impose restrictions or even ban canyoneering in the Fiery Furnace altogether. This concern is a major reason why the canyoneering community tends to remain discreet about publishing beta for this area.
Sharing Information Responsibly[edit]
Although the Park Service does not explicitly prohibit the publication of beta, it is important to approach the sharing of information about the Fiery Furnace with care. By doing so, we help protect this special area and ensure its accessibility for future generations of canyoneers.
To encourage good practices, an attempt has been made to outline the canyoneering routes in this area. However, due to the labyrinthine nature of the terrain, many may still find it difficult to navigate solely based on published beta. As a result, a tradition has emerged in the canyoneering community for individuals experienced with these routes to lead others through the routes for their first time.
By adhering to these principles, we can help preserve the beauty and accessibility of the Fiery Furnace for years to come.
Notes On Using a GPS in the Furnace[edit]
Navigating the Furnace with a GPS is not impossible, but it is also not easy for everyone to do. If you have the necessary skills and preparation you may be able to us a GPS in conjunction with the GPX files on this page. Here are the key considerations:
Terrain Awareness: You must be proficient in visually interpreting the terrain and understanding your surroundings. This includes recognizing which areas are traversable and maintaining a clear sense of your position relative to the landscape.
Satellite-Image Base Map: A satellite-image base map is essential, as traditional topographic maps are ineffective in the Furnace's complex and dynamic environment. You'll need to compare visible features, such as canyon walls, to the map image to verify your location despite what the GPS may indicate.
Relative Positioning: GPS devices may not be able to display your precise position in the Furnace and should be considered a relative position in this area. For instance, you could be on one side of a rock fin while the GPS indicates a different location. This is why a satellite-image base map is critical—it helps you visualize the terrain accurately to use as a check against what the GPS is indicating. Topographic lines alone are insufficient due to the Furnace’s dense and rapidly changing landscape.
Approach[edit]
As mentioned, the Fiery Furnace is a natural labyrinth, making detailed route descriptions of limited use but an attempt will be made here.
Standard Approach[edit]
From the parking lot you will begin the approach via the Ranger-led Hiking Tour Route. The Ranger-led tour follows a counter-clockwise route through the Fiery Furnace. You will notice, from the parking lot, two trails, one heading south east and one heading north.
- Southern Section – This is the starting point of the ranger-led route, which loops counter-clockwise through the Fiery Furnace.
- Northern Section – This is the endpoint of the ranger-led route.
For the Lomatium approach you can take either trail, but it is most efficient to take the Northern Trail and follow the ranger-led route in reverse (clockwise). Regardless of the direction/path you take the goal is to reach the reach the center of the Furnace at the Kissing Turtles Crossroads. From there you will depart the Ranger-Lead tour route and head northward.
Navigating to the Black Wall
- From the Kissing Turtles Crossroads, head north along the base of a large fin on the east side—a relatively flat “hallway.”
- At a certain point begin upclimbing through the fins to the top of the Furnace. This section involves numerous fins, cracks, and turns, but the natural flow of the terrain typically guides you in the correct direction.
- Look for the Black Wall, a slightly darker section of the eastern fin that features a slightly bowled weakness. This requires a short, low fifth-class climb to a wide shelf at the top of the wall. While not particularly black, it is distinguishable from surrounding rock by its slightly darker hue. This is not an overly tall feature, but there is some degree of exposure should you slip and fall.
- Partner assistance is helpful and once one person reaches the shelf they can use a rope to assist others up.
- Avoid attempting this climb in wet, dusty, icy, or other slippery conditions—it can become extremely difficult or even impassable.
- After ascending the Black Wall, head south along the shelf until you find a small crack in the fin. Use this crack to climb to the top of the fin.
On Top of the Fin
- Once on top of the fin enjoy the views. Take a look to the east and take note of a sandy area below your current location and the next fin. You will eventually make your way there.
- Travel north along the top of the fin to a downclimbable crack/chimney.
- If you look around you "may" find a small hidden arch near the top of the crack may help confirm you’re in the right spot. (Note that while the arch faces south, your downclimb faces north and not everyone spots this arch.)
Reaching the Sandy Area
- After the downclimb, you will notice there are no more fins to the north and the terrain is more open.
- You will now make a U-turn by traveling north-to-east-to-south navigate around the base of, and through, several fins.
- You will have to find a way through the rock and fins to make this U-turn and there are a few ways to do so.
- The goal is to make your way to the sandy area you identified earlier when on top of the fin.
- Just beyond the sandy area lies a drainage cutting diagonally southeast through several fins.
The Diagonal Drainage
As you navigate through this section, you’ll encounter the three key obstacles:
- V-Slot Changeover
- Follow the drainage southeast to a crack forming a distinct “V” at the top.
- Use friction moves or a controlled jump to enter the V-slot; The holds on the walls are minimal, so partner assistance can be helpful. Once inside the slot, the footing is stable.
- You’ll enter the slot facing south into the "V"; but, once in the slot, you'll change direction and downclimb northward towards the center of the diagonal drainage. Thus the name for this obstacle.
- Rabbit Hole
- Continue until reaching a steep, bowl-shaped depression. Move down canyon-right behind a large rock and through loose boulders.
- Locate the Rabbit Hole, a passage for crawling through and downclimbing. Take your time to find the correct opening as it can be difficult to find the rabbit hole.
- Downclimb and Sandy Drainage
- After exiting the Rabbit Hole, Proceed to a small downclimb that may require partner assistance. Anticipate a pool of ankle-deep water at the bottom.
- Follow the sandy drainage as it curves south. This is sandy, and brushy, but easy to follow.
- When the fins open to the east, follow the drainage westward to the cliff's edge and the anchor bolts for the first rappel.
Alternative Approach[edit]
Alternatively, it may be possible to access the Lomatium by skirting around much of the fins to the north (top) and east of the Fiery Furnace. This way misses much of the awe-inspiring scenery, but is quicker and does not involve any scrambling or exposure.
Descent[edit]
Lomatium consists of two rappels connected together by an impressive "hallway." Once down the first rappel there is only one way to travel, south down the hallway, to the second anchor.
- R1: 120 ft - Anchored from two bolts with chains.
- R2: 70? ft - Anchored from two bolts. There is usually ankle-deep water at the bottom of this rappel but the water typically can be avoided with a little maneuvering.
Exit[edit]
After completing the second rappel of Lomatium, the canyon opens into a wider section of the Fiery Furnace. From here, you have two options: continue with the standard Lomatium exit or add Krill as a bonus canyon before returning to the main drainage.
Lomatium-Only Exit[edit]
If you are not adding Krill, continue walking south from the second rappel. You will pass a rubble-filled side drainage on your left (north); this is the approach to Krill. Ignore it and continue toward Skull Arch, one of the most impressive features in the Fiery Furnace. Take a moment to appreciate the arch before continuing.
From Skull Arch, remain in the main drainage as it trends south. The terrain includes a few easy obstacles, but staying within the obvious watercourse and bypassing alcoves and side canyons will keep you on track. The route naturally funnels you toward the main drainage used on the ranger-led tour route.
Adding Krill[edit]
If you plan to add Krill, head south from the second rappel but turn left (north) into the rubble-filled drainage before reaching Skull Arch. If you overshoot, simply backtrack a short distance to find it. This side drainage forms the standard approach to Krill. Follow the Krill beta from this point; after completing Krill, you will return to the same main drainage used for the Lomatium exit.
Main Drainage of the Ranger-Led Tour Route[edit]
Once in the main drainage, follow it as it gradually turns west. You will encounter rocky obstacles and occasional narrow cracks requiring short downclimbs. The Fiery Furnace is complex and difficult to describe precisely, but the natural watercourse is your primary guide. Its sandy, distinct path is easy to identify, though you may briefly leave it to bypass obstructions.
Eventually, leave the watercourse on a well-traveled rocky path heading west toward the parking lot. This turnoff can be easy to miss—if you find yourself continuing south through multiple bends, you have gone too far. Once you gain the rocky path, it transitions into a defined trail that leads directly back to the Fiery Furnace entrance.
Red tape[edit]
Permits for Self-Guided access to the Fiery Furnace are required to enter the Fiery Furnace and a reservation for a permit must be obtained through Recreation.gov. A physical permit will need to be picked up from the visitor center and each person in your group must be present for an 8-minute orientation and safety video followed by a 5-minute ranger talk before you can receive the actual permit. Permits can be picked up either the day before or the day of your trip at the visitor center. The visitor center hours change seasonally so check with the park's website for current hours of operation. There are no special allotments for canyoneers but the park will want to know if you are using ropes or not. Permits are $10 per person with a group-size limit of 6 people. Permit reservations can be obtained through Recrecation.gov up to 7 days in advance and often sell out.
In addition to these "self-guided" access the Park offers Ranger-led tours through the Fiery Furnace at 9:00 and 1:30 daily. These Ranger-led tours are offered seasonally so you'll need to check with the park to see if they are currently being offered or not. Group size for the ranger-led hikes was 14. There are small, unobtrusive arrows marking the direction that the ranger-led route travels. Anyone can follow these arrows--assuming they can find them--but if you are on a self-guided permit and encounter a ranger-led tour you are not allowed to follow the tour but are required to give them distance and not bug the ranger with questions. Signs marked "dead-end" indicate a spur to a special geological feature is that way, such as Skull Arch. These are not to be missed and worth the short hikes required. You can then return the way you came on the spur and rejoin the main well-worn path.
Beta sites[edit]
Super Amazing Map : Lomatium Canyon