Lucky Charms
| Rating: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| | Difficulty:3A I (v3a1 I) Raps:0
Red Tape: Shuttle: Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Location: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Condition Reports: | 29 Oct 2017
"another Irish skinny with tight spots, counter clock wise loop, 23 upclimb in the chute has exposure & had to wedge in to avoid slipping, exit goes |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Best season: | Any
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Regions: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
38.0254, -110.5587
Search nearby locations
Weather forecast
Waterflow
Introduction[edit]
Lucky Charms is a class 2, non-technical slot, meaning no ropes are required, but there is an option to add on a class 3 technical section that does require ropes.
Lucky Charms is typically up climbed and then, upon reaching the top, reversed and descended making it both the approach and descent. This can be done by either reaching the first up climb or topping out on the mesa and then turning around and descending the canyon.
Alternatively, after topping out on the mesa, canyoneers can opt to make their way westward to the next drainage over and either descend the short, class 3 technical slot (Magically Delicious) or skirt around the rim of this slot a bit further to a small side drainage and the Down-Climb Exit.
Approach[edit]
From Highway 95 follow the wash up the Lucky Charms drainage as it begins to narrow into a class 2 slot. Once the Lucky Charms drainage narrows up you are in the class 2 ascent / descent section.
Descent[edit]
Lucky Charms - Class 2 Ascent / Descent[edit]
- Lower Section: The lower section of Lucky Charms is fun, easy stemming to a small dry fall. The dry fall can be climbed directly by skilled canyoneers but the easiest way to pass this obstacle is to back track down canyon a bit to where you can up climb to a bench.
- Upper Section: The upper section follows a small bench and ends with two more up climbs. The final dry fall is the crux of Lucky Charms and requires 5th class climbing.
Magically Delicious - Optional Class 3 Descent[edit]
Magically Delicious adds a short, class 3 technical slot (meaning ropes and rappeling are required) to an outing in Lucky Charms. While possible to do this slot as a stand-alone descent, it is more effective to combine it with an up climb of Lucky Charms and use this slot as part of the exit back to the highway. This slot has three rappels of approximately 30ish feet each, though it may be possible to down climb the middle drop.
To reach the Magically Delicious slot, up climb Lucky Charms to the top of the mesa and then follow the natural drainages between the two slots north then westward to the top of Magically Delicious. This supper short route, while not the most direct path between the two drainages, this should be an easy path to follow that also minimizes human impact to the area.
- R1: 30-ish feet.
- R2: 30-ish feet. It may be possible to downclimb this drop.
- R3: 30-ish feet.
Exit[edit]
Lucky Charms Exit[edit]
As mentioned, Lucky Charms can be reversed and descended making this slot its own approach, descent, and exit route. Simply reverse the slot once reaching the top and return the way you came by down climbing what you up climbed and follow the drainage back to the highway.
Magically Delicious Exit[edit]
Descend Magically Delicious and, once through the technical section, continue down the drainage back to the highway.
The Down-Climb Drainage Exit[edit]
After crossing the mesa from the top of Lucky Charms to the top of Magically Delicious, continue to skirt westward around the slot to a side drainage of Magically Delicious. This drainage can be downclimbed--likely with the need to partner assist--to where it joins up with Magically Delicious. From there follow the drainage back to the highway.
Red tape[edit]
Beta sites[edit]
RoadTripRyan.com : Lucky Charms- Super Amazing Map : Lucky Charms
- Climb-Utah.com : Lucky Charms - North wash
- CanyonCollective.com : Lucky Charms
- ToddsHikingGuide.com : Lucky Charms Canyon (Mile 27.0 Canyon)
Trip reports and media[edit]
- Candition.com : Lucky Charms