Springdell Cascade
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| | Raps:1, max ↨150ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 25 Sep 2022
"Solo Trip/FDD. Climbed up higher to upper drainage. Two raps in upper section (30 and 60), left webbing and rapides if anyone wants to repeat. Bes |
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| Best season: | May-Oct
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40.3298, -111.6108
40.3331, -111.6138
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Introduction[edit]
Springdell Cascade is nothing new. Ice climbers have probably been on the wall for 20+ years and it is apparent once you get up top. However, after first seeing the falls and dabbling in the area back in 2014, a recent drive by had me curious to explore a little higher and find a way into the drainage to explore a bit more. With a few hours to spare before I met up with a buddy to explore elsewhere, I decided to solo up to the area and make my way.
NOTE: This area is frequently visited by ice-climbers and should be respected. Do not remove anchors/gear!!
Approach[edit]
From Provo Canyon, just past Canyon Glen (and prior to Nunns Park/Bridal Veil turnoff) there is a small pull out on the right where you see the dirt road come in. I do not advise parking here, and rather you should park at Nunns Park/Bridal Veil and walk down. When I returned to my car at the end of the day, a police officer had marked my car as if it had been abandoned. Whoops! Parking at Nunns/BV and taking the Bonneville Shoreline Trail will only be an extra 0.4 mi and 50' of gain. Best to be safe and park in an actual parking lot. Once on the Shoreline Trail, you will come to your first noticeable left hand turn up a trail (east) that heads up to Springdell Cascade. Upon reaching the Cascade (before going up to it), you have 2 options. If you contour around to the south and stay on the trail, you'll find a great fire pit and will soon lose the trail. In the first attempt to get higher in the drainage, I explored up the cliff bands for about a mile/1000' and came back around into the upper drainage (NOT RECOMMENDED). Getting to the upper section required steep screes, free climbing exposed rock (5.7), and isn't worth the effort for the extra 30' and 60' rappels.
The recommended route is to hike up to the cascade once you see it. To the right of the waterfall you will see anchored in cables with a tag that says "warning/climbers only", or something of that sort. I advise putting on your harness and safety tether at this point to make the climb up to the top. Gain the 50' up to the wall, and then traverse along the lines (cable/rope) around the rock to the ridge. The cables then go vertical-ish for 100' or so. Clip in past every anchor, make sure you have secure hands and feet, and please stagger people on your approach as there is loose rock everywhere. Once you top out at the end of the cables, contour to your left over to the Cascade. You will find more cables to clip into along with some remnants of ice-climbing anchors (please leave them intact). Drop down to the watercourse and you're there.
Descent[edit]
For the recommended descent of the Springdell Cascade, you will notice a few anchors up top that you can get to.
- 1: Slung trees/roots LDC. (in flow)
- 2: Two bolt chains RDC of watercourse (below the tree). To get to these, contour RDC and safety into the cables just as you did previously. (RECOMMENDED, in flow)
- 3: Contouring out RDC even wider, you will find another set of 2 chains with a set of 3-via ferrata sytle rungs, probably used as a staging area for climbing. (Not in the flow)
From the 2-chains (anchor 2), it is 150' to the bottom. There is a small bush/branches directly below, so just make sure your ropes are set underneath the branches for an easy pull. Great mild flow, verticality, and NO CROWDS. A great alternative to battling the masses at Bridal Veil. :)
Exit[edit]
Return the way you came. Back down to the Bonneville Shoreline Trail to Bridal Veil/Nunns Park.
Red tape[edit]
Popular Ice-Climbing Area. DO NOT remove gear or try to descend when the ice is forming/in. Respect the other athletes/activities in the area.