Black Canyon (Colorado River)
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| | Difficulty:2A V (v1a1 V) Raps:
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| Best season: | Spring or Fall
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36.0095, -114.7434
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Introduction[edit]
This is a fantastic backpacking trip paddling down the Colorado river and exploring slot canyons, waterfalls, hot springs and petroglyphs. The best time to go is Fall and Spring. Winter may be fine, but a bit too cold to enjoy the splashing water. Summer will be scorching hot, you may paddle the river but will only be able to hike at night.
The Black Canyon part of the Colorado River is filled with spectacular scenery, steep cliffs, narrow river and swift currents give you the feel of the Colorado River, but, technically you are in upper Lake Mohave. The currents are mild, but they can be stronger near the dam when the dam is releasing. This trip does not necessarily require prior paddling experience, but it is recommended to have at least one experienced paddler in each boat.
If you go with a commercial company they will charge you $400/person for such a trip (http://www.kayaklasvegas.com/kayak_two_day/). However, renting a canoe and doing your own trip will cost you 10 times less and you will get a much better experience going at your own pace and exploring more stuff.
Approach[edit]
What vehicle to use[edit]
To do this trip you will need some sort of watercraft, preferably something solid (not inflatable) that can haul lots of gear.
- A canoe is preferred over a kayak, it's cheaper, can transport 2 adults + lots of gear, you will go downstream most of the time.
- There are no rapids in the Black Canyon, the ones you see on the topo map are from before the Hoover dam, so a canoe is perfectly fine
- If you bring your own canoe, you will have to set up a shuttle and tramit a permit from http://www.nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/canoekayak.htm
- You can rent a canoe for 2days for around $60/person from most outfitters, they will include free shuttle but permit is at additional cost
- You can find a list of authorized commercial outfitters at http://www.nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/boat-launch-from-hoover-dam-permit.htm
- They will meet you in the morning somewhere near the Hoover dam, take you to the put it, drop you in the water and pick you up at Willow beach a few days later
- I've always used Desert Adventures and I've been very happy with them, their rates are posted at http://www.kayaklasvegas.com/kayak_rental_gear/canoes.html
- When you make a reservation, you can also rent giant dry bags for $5, to pack sleeping bags and tents so if the canoe flips all will stay dry
Where to stay[edit]
You will probably need a place to overnight before starting your trip the next day and maybe also place to stay before driving back home.
- La Hacienda Hotel and Casino (http://www.haciendaonline.com/) is next to Hoover dam, they have inexpensive rooms and prime rib special dinners
- Boulder Beach Campground (http://www.nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/campinglakemead.htm) will save a few bucks and allow you to test the camping gear
- You can also stay anywhere else in Boulder or even Vegas, just make sure you show up at the agreed time the day you start your adventure
What to pack[edit]
You will camp overnight in primitive camps and will have to be self sufficient for several days under any weather condition, so plan accordingly.
- ID for security checkpoint (Very important - You will NOT be allowed to launch without ID)
- Dry bag (Rentals $2-$5, reserve in advance)
- Extra rope and small carabiners for tying boats and securing stuff
- Quick dry clothing, plan to wear several layers to fit day/night temps
- River sandals or water shoes - NO flip flops
- Swimsuit (you may skinny dip sometimes but not always)
- Towel
- Waterproof Headlamps
- Webbing for handline, optionally also technical gear for canyoneering
- Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm
- Wristwatch to tell time (or a cell phone in a dry bag)
- Water (1 gal/person/day), you may filter from the Colorado river
- Food (breakfast, lunch and dinners), you may bring coolers in the canoe
- Kitchen & Cooking Equipment
- Stove/Grill + Matches
- Tents + Sleeping Bags + Pads + Pillows
- Toilet Supplies
- Personal Hygiene Kit
- Garbage Bags
- Firewood/Duralogs (check restrictions)
- Camera and extra batteries
- Camping chairs or tarps to seat on
- Radios may be good for larger groups
In Winter Months:
- Base Layer top & bottom (Polypro, wool, or synthetic - not cotton!)
- Insulating Layer Fleece (for warmth - not cotton!)
- Outer Layer Jacket to block rain/wind
- Jacket to block rain or wind
- Beanie/hat for cool evenings
- Gloves
- Wool Socks
Descent[edit]
The paddling route is broken up in 4 segments but you may want to join or split the route differently based on your own interests. There is enough non-technical canyon explorations to fill several days, you may also choose to bring technical gear and run some of the technical canyons from the river.
The map has all the points of interest: where to land, where to camp, where to relax, where to hike. You should plan in advance but be flexible and adjust the plan as you go, as it is very hard to forecast how long it will take you to relax in the hot springs or how far up a slot canyon you will want to go or how fast you paddle.
What to do[edit]
- Hoover Dam: 726.4 feet tall, 660 feet wide. Take good pictures of it when you launch.
- Sauna Cave: Hot springs coming out of a manmade tunnel. 130F and 100% humidity in the back of the cave, stay there to sauna and come out and swim in the cold water to cool off.
- Gold Strike Canyon: Miles of hiking, scrambling, hot springs and waterfalls. Small campsites can be found. You may go up only to the Hot Springs or you may branch up Telephone Canyon to rappel Motorcycle Canyon.
- Secret Canyon: The bottom of this canyon is spectacular and has Hot Springs only accessible by boat or by rappelling from the top.
- Lone Palm Canyon: Waterfall and Mexican Fan palm rumored to be the first palm tree in the canyon. You may go up only a short way or all the way up to rappel Secret Canyon (Nevada).
- The Ear: A rain cave resembling a human ear. You may land the kayaks at the base of the cave and climb up the internal structures.
- Boy Scout Canyon: Numerous hot springs, narrow slot canyons, and lots of hiking. Small camping areas. You may go up only to the Hot Springs or you may go up to rappel the big wall of Boy Scout Canyon or Devils Drain Canyon
- Sea Cave: Natural cave you can paddle your canoe into. Just make sure you don't flip.
- Ringbolt in canyon wall: one of the few still left from Ringbolt Rapids - the wildest section of the river before the Hoover dam.
- Devils Drain Canyon: Hiking trails, hot springs, or rappel Devils Drain Canyon if you manage to find a way to access the top.
- White Rock Canyon: Hiking trails, hot springs, and large group areas for camping and overnight. If Camp AZ Hot Springs is packed try to find a secluded spot here.
- AZ Hot Springs Beach: Large camping areas, beaches, hot springs, hiking, and two outhouses.
- Petroglyph Wash: Great Indian rock art about 1.8 miles up the trail from AZ Hot Springs.
- Weeping Springs Cove: A beautiful cove where evidence of water and plant erosion has created a small waterfall. A classic example of a gravity fault.
- Hot Springs: Hot springs drip from above the river, requires to land at Bighorn and do some scrambling to access.
- Bighorn Canyon: this is the best non-technical slot canyon in the area, definitely recommended, may require partner assists in some spots.
- Cranes Nest Canyon: Camping, hiking, & canyon exploring. You may go up the wash to rappel down Ringpin Canyon
- Rice Weed Canyon: Large sandy beach, good for large groups and overnight camping.
- Gauging Station: Used prior to the construction of the Dam for monitoring water levels, flow, and sediment content of the river. On hot days one may climb the ladder and jump. If you manage to land your boat at the other side of the river from the gauge you may find a use trail to access the catwalk further down canyon. Please note the catwalk has been abandoned for half a century and the park service discourages visitors from climbing to it.
- Emerald Cave: Formed by natural faulting, this cave has been on the cover of many magazines. From here is aprox 1h to Willow Beach.
- Catwalk and Cablecars: Elevated walkway used by the gauger to traverse the turbulent waters of the Colorado River before the Dam. Some may be tempted to use technical gear to cross the cable and access the catwalk. Please note the catwalk has been abandoned for half a century and the park service discourages visitors from climbing to it.
- Historic Trailhead: Trail leading from the 1920’s homesite of the gauger to the suspended cable used to access the catwalk, which the gauger used to read the gauge.
- Fish Hatchery: One of the largest in the United States. Not sure if they allow visitors.
- Willow Beach Marina: An old Indian trading camp for nearly 1400 years. Take out is usually on the beach south of the pier.
More information at http://blackcanyonwatertrail.org/trip-planning/self-guided-tours/a-black-canyon-river-trip/
If you plan to do any of the technical canyons in the area you should take a look at the combined map of the Lake Mead area. You can see this map by going to Lake Mead NRA and enabling the 'Show KML maps' option. You can download it by using the 'Download KML Map' link under the map box, then choosing the 'Locations + Routes' option.
Special considerations[edit]
- I recommend you spend one night at the AZ Hot Springs and go soak in the Hot Springs Canyon at night (it's very cool)
- It is good to camp near the river but NOT too near as the water level rises A LOT when they release from the dam
- Do not dive or submerge your head in any of the thermal waters. Naegleria fowleri is an amoeba that can enter your body through the nose and cause brain infection and even death.
Exit[edit]
Pace yourself to show up at Willow beach at the expected day and time. If you get there too early or too late just call the outfitters and they will come pick you up. Just keep in mind that it will be impossible to abort the trip once started, so once you are paddling you will be paddling till Willow beach despite rain or wind.
Red tape[edit]
Boating permit is required, for more information go to http://www.nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/canoekayak.htm
If renting a canoe, they will take care of everything. Advanced reservation is definitely recommended for Spring and Fall.
- Please remember that permanent fixed hardware (aka bolts) are not permitted within LMNRA, which includes the Black Canyon Wilderness Area.
Beta sites[edit]
- http://blackcanyonwatertrail.org/trip-planning/self-guided-tours/a-black-canyon-river-trip/
- http://ramkitten2000.hubpages.com/hub/black-canyon-canoe-trip-colorado-river
- http://www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam/paddlecraft/riverinfo.html
RoadTripRyan.com : Black Canyon- http://www.birdandhike.com/Wilderness/BlackCyn/_Black.htm