Buttercup Canyon
| Rating: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| | Difficulty:3A III (v3a1 III) Raps:9-10, max ↨200ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle: Vehicle:High Clearance | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Location: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Condition Reports: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Best season: | Nov-Mar (avg for this region)
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Regions: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
36.5816, -117.2731
Search nearby locations
Weather forecast
Waterflow
Introduction[edit]
Approach[edit]
Descent[edit]
Feb/2017 some changes observed to the descent of this canyon Jan/2017 that added 3 rappels.
R0: Drop in at the far left of the canyon mouth with streaks instead of waypoint shown on previous KML, there is an expsoed down climb around a large rock in the center that looks sketchy but it is hidden by the large rock center. Some groups may need a safety rope or make a rappel LDC. If so an anchor could be built that would make this R1 of 100' 2-stage.
R1: 90', 2 stage
R2: 198', a 200' rope should reach depending on anchor locaton (reference Bluugnome R1)
R3: 40' (or rap) (reference Bluugnome R2)
(R4) Dc1 & Dc2 15' (or rap) (could be combined as the 200' stage mentioned Jan/2017)
(R4) Dc3: 15' (or rap)
R5: 100', 2 stage (reference Bluugnome R3)
R6: 90', 2 stage (reference Bluugnome R4)
R7: 35' from a chock stone, through a rabbit hole. You can rap all the way to the bottom, bypassing the cairn below and making one 190' rap, but you may have a rope pull issue. (reference Bluugnome R5)
R8: 160' (reference Bluugnome R5)
R9: 130' (reference Bluugnome R6)
Exit[edit]
Note that if you want to run a 2nd canyon (Inconceivable, Humperdinck) you can exit up right before the junction with Humperdinck. We went at 36.582361, -117.269612, but there is a 2nd option just after at the white rock that is probably easier. Follow the gully back up towards the ridge. We climbed a 15' wall at about Class 3+ near the junction with the steep canyon that goes straight to the ridge. Instead, turn left up the low angle gully, climbing a short 7' step that some may want a small assist on, then turn right up talus quickly back up to the ridge and route. Midway point- 36.579735, -117.269786. We made it to Inconceivable in 1hr and largely in the shade. Total for the day was 8:20 with a small group and above average speed.
Red tape[edit]
Note that there is no camping on this road. It is heavily patrolled at least once a day and the rangers check aggressively to see if you're camping.
Beta sites[edit]
BluuGnome.com : Buttercup Canyon- Super Amazing Map : Buttercup Canyon
Trip reports and media[edit]
From one of the early trip reports - 12-21-14, (and on an earlier trip there in 2012)
Background[edit]
Explored By Scott Swaney and teammates in 2012 when opening up the Princess Bride Canyon group. See "trip reports" above in the Trips descriptions there
