Chiquita Canyon
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| Difficulty:3A II (v3a1 II) Raps:5, max ↨110ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:Optional 7min, or 1.4mi Vehicle:Passenger | |||||||
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Condition Reports: | 29 Jul 2022
"Did a 1 car route (parked on Loma Alta close to the canyon exit on McNally) which adds extra time and miles to the route. Spent time pruning the shru |
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Introduction[edit]
Chiquita Canyon, while not very remarkable in itself, is a worthwhile San Gabriel adventure. It boasts a simple approach and exit, one large rappel for flavor, and more downclimbs than typically found in the area. This makes it slightly spicier than your average walk and rap canyon. Have you exhausted the Front Range and found this page because you're looking for something new? Why not give this a go.
Approach[edit]
Shuttle:
Park exit vehicle at the intersection of McNally Ave and Fair Oaks Ave. Shuttle to the Mt. Lowe Road Trailhead. From the gate, hike the road to the second horseshoe in the road. Take the obvious dirt trail a short distance to the canyon start. Total approach is approximately 1.7mi and 1,000' of gain.
Non-Shuttle:
Option 1: If you don't have a second vehicle, you can hike the shuttle route which will add approximately 1.4mi and 400' elevation gain for a total of 3.1mi and 1,400' of gain.
Option 2: For the same 3.1mi and 1,400' of gain, you can hike from the exit parking spot to the Cobb Estate Trailhead and take the fire road/trail up the east neighboring ridge to the same drop in point.
Descent[edit]
The start of the canyon is loose scree, but it is very short lived. The canyon proper is a mix of many short downclimbs and rappels, so it is difficult to recount the exact make up of these drops. There may or may not be anchors present depending on the party's comfort level. As of 2/2022, it was conservatively rigged at any questionable drop. The rock in the canyon is loose and crumbly, so anchors must be re-evaluated and might have been alternately rigged from what is listed following:
R1 - +30', anchor off a tree DCL.
Several downclimbs follow with one requiring partner assist.
R2 - 25', deadman anchor.
R3 - ~70' two-stage. Anchored off a flimsy tree at the top of the first 8' stage. Watch out for poison oak at the top, easy to put your head in it.
The next 2 rappels run one after the other.
R4 - 20' off a shrub DCR to the top of R5.
R5 - two stage, 110-120' and 20'. Approximately 160' length total. R5 had some very old, sun-faded & fraying webbing RDC off a questionable shrubby tree about 15 feet up a steep, crumbling rock and dirt slope. Cairn anchor built about 7 feet back from the ledge. Please take the time to inspect it, as the rock is not of high quality and any water coming through there could easily compromise it.
After the big drop, the canyon becomes quite scenic, green, shady, and open. Easy walking and there are a number of fun downclimbs and rappels. You'll also notice some glue in bolts in places. One drop has an old ~12mm climbing rope fixed to bolts. We used this to rappel, but it is core shot and likely needing of replacement or removal in the future.
Exit[edit]
One indicator you are reaching the end of the canyon is a small confluence RDC that looks like it would be fun to up climb. Continue down the main drainage you're in and shortly you will find another confluence that appears both LDC and RDC. Go right, the more obvious choice, and you will run into a questionable wooden bridge. This is your road. Take it LDC back to your car.
Red tape[edit]
The canyon exits at a point where Fair Oaks becomes a private road. There are numerous signs alerting to private road, private property, no hiking, etc. Not sure if this applies to the canyon or neighboring land. In any case, be considerate and leave promptly to avoid upsetting landowners. It is only a short walk from here to the exit vehicle.
Beta sites[edit]
Trip reports and media[edit]
Background[edit]
Some history on the canyons in the area: http://www.angelusmountaincenter.com/history/