Conditions:Chiquita Canyon-20210103165539

Latest:	2 Jan 2021 (4 yrs, 4 mos ago)

Reported by:	Mikeatran (84 reports)
Quality:	Good
Waterflow:	Dry
Wetsuit:	None
Water temperature:
Difficulty:	Normal
Time:	4 hours

Team: 5 people with experience level Beginner to Advanced

Trip report URL:

Comments: Took a pseudo shuttle approach; the exit shuttle marked on the map is private property and marked with towing signs so we ended up parking on Taos and McNally. Starting parking gate was closed as well, signs are up noting that the gate leading up to the starting parking spot is closed on weekends. Parked on Loma Alta near the start of the Chaney road and hiked up. Overall the canyon was in decent condition, the long drop has some really sun faded webbing that is getting close to needing to be replaced. Some PO after the 3rd big rappel along with some low water near the canyon kelp area. Recommend to bring ghosting tools and use good partner capture techniques to complete the first half of the canyon, the second half starting with the big rappel has a mixture of natural anchors and some glue in bolts. Definitely an interesting canyon and more technical than the basic trade routes.

All condition reports

Date	Quality	Waterflow	Wetsuit	Difficulty	Time	Team	Reported by
29 Jul 2022	Good	Dry		Special challenges	6 hours	2 people Beginner	Rapbear (74 reports)
Comment: Did a 1 car route (parked on Loma Alta close to the canyon exit on McNally) which adds extra time and miles to the route. Spent time pruning the shrubbery also. Canyon path is pretty good. If you think you need to build yourself an anchor, you might want to look around to see if the rappel is down climbable. There are often accessible routes instead of rappels between R1 and R2. R2 deadman anchor is not good. It was washed up and sitting by itself. We did a partner assist / meat anchor on R2 and bypassed rebuilding the anchor as the rock quality at this rappel site is questionable. R3 is right below a healthy looking poison oak bush. It's hard to avoid so be careful. R4 anchor was a blue webbing + rappel ring on a tree DCL, ~30 feet from the ledge. If you are going over a small ledge with what looks like a sheet of aluminum from an aircraft, look to the tree DCL and you should see it. This is different from the wiki. There are lots of down climbing after R5 and at least one rappel. Some of the down climbing was quite challenging. I wouldn't trust the fixed rope at the last rappel. We used the anchor (blue webbing / single bolt) at the ledge above and combined the two. Overall, it was cool in the canyon even though it was a hotter day. We really liked the view from R5. It was beautiful. This is a worthwhile canyon, if you haven't done it already.
13 Feb 2022	Good	Dry	None	Normal	4 hours	4 people Expert to Intermediate	AmandaC (40 reports)
Comment: Took the shuttle up to Mt. Lowe Road Trailhead. The Cheney Trail Rd was congested with cars and parking was crowded. The canyon is loose and brushy in places. Brought pruning loppers and cleaned up the trail, moving downed brush as well. It should be very easily passible and clear now. We replaced many anchors as it was apparent the canyon had flashed since the last trip report. Replaced and rebuilt the deadman anchor. There is a lot of poison oak and the leaves are only beginning to bud, so it is difficult to see it at times. It also likes to vine right at the head/face level, thus the alternate name of the canyon. It can be avoided though, so this should not deter you from going, just be mindful. The rock can be loose and crumbly and the trees dead, so be careful on what you choose as an anchor. Also the fixed rope is core shot so like, be careful with that or consider replacing. Really enjoyed all the downclimbs though and the lower canyon is quite pretty. TBH we replaced and cleared a lot, so if you're interested now would be a good time to run the canyon.
26 Sep 2021	Good	Dry	None	Normal	4 hours	3 people Intermediate	ADubs (13 reports)
Comment: Shuttle >> Shuttled one car to Fair Oaks just below Zorthian Ranch private parking lot and the other to the start point on Chaney at the access point to Sunset Ridge where we climbed the road to the big bend at the top of Chiquita.  Approach >> Very top of approach is loose and brushy but very short Descent >>  R1 - 30+ feet, anchor off a tree DCL.  Several downclimbs follow with one requiring partner assist. Clipped back some of the denser brush along the way. After the 3rd downclimb is R2 - 25', built a deadman anchor.  R3 is a two-stage, approx 70' of rope deployed. Ghosted off a flimsy tree at the top of the first 8' stage. Watch out for poison oak at the top, easy to put your head in it. The next series of rappels run one after the other, with the topmost R4 ghosted off a shrub DCR down approx 20 feet to the top of R5. R5 had some very old, sun-faded & fraying webbing RDC off a shrubby tree about 15-20 feet up a steep, crumbling rock and dirt slope. Cut as much of it down as could be reached, but did not make the sketchy climb up to the tree, so instead built a cairn anchor about 7 feet back from the ledge. Please take the time to inspect it, as the rock is not of high quality and any water coming through there in the winter could easily compromise it. R5 is two stages, the first being about 110-20' feet and the second being about 20' a small distance down canyon. Used approx 160 feet of rope to do both.  Exit >> The canyon becomes brushy and full of loose rock, broken up by 2-3 downclimbs. Once the canyon opens up and become worn by obvious foot use, our group accidentally left the canyon on a DCL use trail that appeared to go around some brush, but actually took us up very high on the slope and then contoured us around and down into a side drainage. We ended up crossing through Zorthian Ranch to get back to our shuttled car on Fair Oaks. This added probably 45 minutes to our hike out. A very fun little canyon. Watch out for poison oak throughout the upper and middle reaches.
2 Jan 2021	Good	Dry	None	Normal	4 hours	5 people Beginner to Advanced	Mikeatran (84 reports)
Comment: Took a pseudo shuttle approach; the exit shuttle marked on the map is private property and marked with towing signs so we ended up parking on Taos and McNally. Starting parking gate was closed as well, signs are up noting that the gate leading up to the starting parking spot is closed on weekends. Parked on Loma Alta near the start of the Chaney road and hiked up. Overall the canyon was in decent condition, the long drop has some really sun faded webbing that is getting close to needing to be replaced. Some PO after the 3rd big rappel along with some low water near the canyon kelp area. Recommend to bring ghosting tools and use good partner capture techniques to complete the first half of the canyon, the second half starting with the big rappel has a mixture of natural anchors and some glue in bolts. Definitely an interesting canyon and more technical than the basic trade routes.
8 Mar 2020	Good	Dry	None	Easy	2 hours	1 people Advanced	Jcsjcs (120 reports)
Comment: Took the firebreak approach from the Cobb Estate trailhead. Canyon was loose and somewhat trashy near the drop-in but soon got better. Some areas of brush to fight through but not that bad. I did 5 rappels and plenty of downclimbs that could add to the number of rappels depending on the group's comfort. The canyon's lower reaches are rather playful with fun chute-like downclimbs and a fixed rope down a more significant ledge.