Conditions:Spearhead Canyon-20260415031436
Latest: |
4 Apr 2026 (10 days ago) |
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| Reported by: | RFontaine (355 reports) | |
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| Location: | Spearhead Canyon | |
| Quality: | Great |
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| Waterflow: | ||
| Wetsuit: | ||
| Water temperature: | ||
| Difficulty: | ||
| Time: |
Team: 4 people
Trip report URL:
Comments: This is a canyon I’ve been looking at for a long while. After reading about Luke’s attempt back in 2009 and Tom’s 2 day descent in 2010 I had wondered why no known follow up descents had been made. Was it the long potentially challenging approach? The “huge” wall drop in with challenging anchors? The fact that Tom’s group split it into 2 days? Studying the terrain and distance on maps it didn’t look all that bad to me. I was convinced we could do it in a long day… “11-12 hours” I said to my team.
We got an early start, hiking up West Rim Trail at dawn. It took us 2 hours to reach the turn off into Behunin Canyon and another 30mins to get down to the sloping nose that would be our “ramp” up to the wild plateau far above.
The climb out of Behunin started up sloping sandstone slabs, topping out on a “dragon back” style ridge where we got our first views of the “challenging” part of the approach. The final crux section to reach the plateau was a very steep and exposed scramble, 200ft straight up. It looked slightly intimidating from far away.
The closer we got to the final scramble, the easier it looked. Dotted with trees the whole way up, multiple exposed 4th class spots, and loose rocks. We were able to move through it, gaining the plateau without issue, no cams or belay lines needed. Pretty standard “slightly sketchy” terrain for the average seasoned canyoneer. It took us 1hr 15min to get up to the plateau from Behunin.
On the plateau the view is simply incredible! One of the best 360 views Ive ever had in Zion. The big horn sheep have done a wonderful job maintaining their trails up top of which we were able to follow around the right side of Mount Majestic and straight down to the drop in. It took us 1 hour to reach the head of the canyon after the scramble. Making for a 5 hour approach in total.
We walked around the edge of the canyon head investigating potential drop in points. It wasnt obvious where the last team had dropped in 16 years ago.
Looking across the way saw a relatively clean line down the wall, on the opposite side of the canyon from where the approach brought us. We slung webbing on a stout tree and I dropped in to see how far my rope would get me. The rappel went over a few small bushes below the edge but then was clean wall the rest of the way down. These bushes were not a problem for the pull if biner blocked.
I found a nice little foot ledge large enough for 2 people 170’ down from the top and installed a 2 bolt anchor on the wall. From that anchor it was 210’ to the canyon floor, the better part of it freehanging. Much different than the original beta I read before.
I could see the potential rappel line at the canyon head that Tom had mentioned. There is an old tree slung with ancient webbing half way down. That line looked like a much harder pull and the wall was broken and pocketed with more potential for sticking ropes. Still not sure where the “Christmas tree” that Tom’s crew used. Probably long gone at this point.
From here we downclimbed under a boulder, stepping around a dead bighorn sheep following the perfectly straight highwalled canyon down. We encountered a nice 60ft drop soon after and multiple small drops/downclimbs throughout between long walking sections. There were a few shallow pools further on, one being unavoidable but only knee deep. The canyon was for the most part delightfully bush whack free!
We eventually could see some space up ahead. We downclimbed a neat rabbit hole on the left and arrived at the great patio, the start of the final crack sequence of rappels.
I really enjoyed this part, the cracky raps were wild and feature rich with lots to look at… and LOTS that could stick a rope! However, with thoughtful rigging, and careful rope placement, we had no issues. I will say though, this sequence definitely demands some care and respect, there are rope eating cracks and sticky features everywhere!
The final drop is anchored far outside of the last section of crack, accessed by traversing a ledge DCL.
After a quick bouldery downclimb session we were out on the main Emerald Pools trail just down from Behunin.
We made it back to the Grotto in 11 hours, 45 minutes.
I felt the canyon had an ancient old world feel, totally wild. We really enjoyed the approach and the dramatic drop in. The canyon was neat but the final crack sequence really made the route. I feel this is a very worthwhile big day route for the experienced team, perhaps a new Zion classic!
All webbing replaced. Beta updated.
All condition reports
| Date | Quality | Waterflow | Wetsuit | Difficulty | Time | Team | Reported by |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Great | | | | | 4 people | RFontaine (355 reports) | |
Comment: This is a canyon I’ve been looking at for a long while. After reading about Luke’s attempt back in 2009 and Tom’s 2 day descent in 2010 I had wondered why no known follow up descents had been made. Was it the long potentially challenging approach? The “huge” wall drop in with challenging anchors? The fact that Tom’s group split it into 2 days? Studying the terrain and distance on maps it didn’t look all that bad to me. I was convinced we could do it in a long day… “11-12 hours” I said to my team.
We got an early start, hiking up West Rim Trail at dawn. It took us 2 hours to reach the turn off into Behunin Canyon and another 30mins to get down to the sloping nose that would be our “ramp” up to the wild plateau far above. The climb out of Behunin started up sloping sandstone slabs, topping out on a “dragon back” style ridge where we got our first views of the “challenging” part of the approach. The final crux section to reach the plateau was a very steep and exposed scramble, 200ft straight up. It looked slightly intimidating from far away. The closer we got to the final scramble, the easier it looked. Dotted with trees the whole way up, multiple exposed 4th class spots, and loose rocks. We were able to move through it, gaining the plateau without issue, no cams or belay lines needed. Pretty standard “slightly sketchy” terrain for the average seasoned canyoneer. It took us 1hr 15min to get up to the plateau from Behunin. On the plateau the view is simply incredible! One of the best 360 views Ive ever had in Zion. The big horn sheep have done a wonderful job maintaining their trails up top of which we were able to follow around the right side of Mount Majestic and straight down to the drop in. It took us 1 hour to reach the head of the canyon after the scramble. Making for a 5 hour approach in total. We walked around the edge of the canyon head investigating potential drop in points. It wasnt obvious where the last team had dropped in 16 years ago. Looking across the way saw a relatively clean line down the wall, on the opposite side of the canyon from where the approach brought us. We slung webbing on a stout tree and I dropped in to see how far my rope would get me. The rappel went over a few small bushes below the edge but then was clean wall the rest of the way down. These bushes were not a problem for the pull if biner blocked. I found a nice little foot ledge large enough for 2 people 170’ down from the top and installed a 2 bolt anchor on the wall. From that anchor it was 210’ to the canyon floor, the better part of it freehanging. Much different than the original beta I read before. I could see the potential rappel line at the canyon head that Tom had mentioned. There is an old tree slung with ancient webbing half way down. That line looked like a much harder pull and the wall was broken and pocketed with more potential for sticking ropes. Still not sure where the “Christmas tree” that Tom’s crew used. Probably long gone at this point. From here we downclimbed under a boulder, stepping around a dead bighorn sheep following the perfectly straight highwalled canyon down. We encountered a nice 60ft drop soon after and multiple small drops/downclimbs throughout between long walking sections. There were a few shallow pools further on, one being unavoidable but only knee deep. The canyon was for the most part delightfully bush whack free! We eventually could see some space up ahead. We downclimbed a neat rabbit hole on the left and arrived at the great patio, the start of the final crack sequence of rappels. I really enjoyed this part, the cracky raps were wild and feature rich with lots to look at… and LOTS that could stick a rope! However, with thoughtful rigging, and careful rope placement, we had no issues. I will say though, this sequence definitely demands some care and respect, there are rope eating cracks and sticky features everywhere! The final drop is anchored far outside of the last section of crack, accessed by traversing a ledge DCL. After a quick bouldery downclimb session we were out on the main Emerald Pools trail just down from Behunin. We made it back to the Grotto in 11 hours, 45 minutes. I felt the canyon had an ancient old world feel, totally wild. We really enjoyed the approach and the dramatic drop in. The canyon was neat but the final crack sequence really made the route. I feel this is a very worthwhile big day route for the experienced team, perhaps a new Zion classic! All webbing replaced. Beta updated. | |||||||