Deadhorse Creek

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Deadhorse Creek Canyoneering Canyoning Caving
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Deadhorse Creek Banner.jpg

Difficulty:3C3 III R (v5a5 V)
Raps:‌9-12, max ↨150ft
Metric
Overall:5-9h ⟷1.1mi
Approach:30min-1h ⟷0.5mi ↑100ft
Descent:4-7h ⟷0.4mi ↓690ft
Exit:30-45min ⟷0.2mi ↓300ft
Red Tape:No permit required
Shuttle:Required 15 min
Vehicle:Passenger
Rock type:Andesite, Basalt
Start:
Parking:
Shuttle:
Condition Reports:
7 Sep 2024




"3 years since the last reported descent! We used a new approach & exit to avoid the (still) closed road. Adds a bunch of hiking, but all downhill at l

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Weather:
Best season:
Aug-Sep
winterspringsummerfall
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Regions:


Welcome! Canyons in the Pacific Northwest can be different from those you might be used to. Be ready for unlinked bolts, retrievable traverse lines, and challenging aquatic environments. For more on local practices, and the best way to get started in the region, check out the WCC Safety page.
  • Unlinked Bolts - groups should be comfortable rigging unlinked bolts, either temporarily linking them for all but the last person, or using a passive redundancy method. Most importantly, if you find two bolts side by side that are unlinked, do not add webbing to them. Linking bolts designed to be unlinked will likely cause damage during seasonal floods.
  • Traverse Lines - many canyons are rigged to allow traverse line access to an exposed anchor station. This should be done using self-belay or team belay techniques. Do not leave fixed lines in the canyons.
  • Challenging Environments - the highly aquatic nature of PNW canyons can surprise many. Cold temperatures, slippery rocks, loud waterfalls, and strong currents all lead to unexpected problems. Do not underestimate the need for strong team work and technical proficiency. Belays are frequently not possible. Unattended gear will sink or float away. Sliding and jumping is the cause of most major injuries, so it's critical to effectively communicating water depth & submerged hazards.

Introduction[edit]

Deadhorse Creek is located within Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest in Whatcom County, Washington. It is a tributary of Wells Creek and the North Fork Nooksack River. Deadhorse Creek forms the drainage basin between Cougar Divide and Skyline Divide. It is sourced primarily from semi-permanent ice (Hadley Glacier) and snowmelt. Deadhorse Creek is remarkable in that it includes a tall, narrow crack in addition to canyon development typical of the region. The technical challenges of this stream include its committing nature, high flow, and big, narrow pitches.


Warning!Road Closure

A washout in November 2021 closed Deadhorse Road (Forest Service Road 37) to motorized wheeled vehicles at mile 3.1 (east of Mount Baker Highway WA-542). Non-motorized use is allowed beyond the closure. Attempting to descend Deadhorse Creek via this road during the closure would add 12.5 miles distance plus 2,250ft elevation gain of road walking/cycling to the trip.


Info!2024 Alternative Approach & Exit

In Sept 2024 an alternative top-down approach and exit was used to run Deadhorse Creek with the FSR37 still closed. This has been added to the route map. In summary:

  • Approach: Leave a vehicle at the closed Excelsior Campground (48.90863, -121.82132), staying well clear of the hydro-plant at the end of the road. Drive up nearby NF-33, and just before the summit turn right onto NF-30 for the last minute. From the end of the road start your hike NWN down towards the classic drop-in point, picking your line through breaks in cliff bands.
  • Exit: Hike down NF-37 until roughly SE of the closed Excelsior campground. Drop off the road towards the river, again picking a line through the cliff bands. Cross the river and climb the bank of the other side (again staying well clear of the hydro plant) to regain the road and the vehicles.

Some notes about this approach:

  • This requires crossing the NF Nooksack River (flow gauge), which was first done at 450cfs. Check this before departing! Thankfully there are plenty of places to see the river from the main Baker Highway.
  • The shuttle setup is long, taking about 40mins to drive each way.
  • NF-33 is rough in places. While likely possible in a medium-clearance 2wd, a high-clearance 4wd is much better suited to the terrain.


Special note for season openers and anchor maintainers[edit]

It is recommended that the first group of the season be prepared to install sustainable anchors (unlinked 316 stainless steel bolt anchors or v-threads) in the event that the existing bolt anchors are damaged. Safe natural anchor options are extremely limited at the bolted pitch heads. Also be prepared to replace webbing and quick links on the natural anchors.

Waterflow[edit]

Despite the roar and ominous appearance at the top of the three big pitches, the flow is dispersed such that the descending canyoner does not necessarily experience the full force of the water. Beginners will likely be intimidated and have difficulty. Advanced canyoners experienced with swift water may be able to safely negotiate more flow than in the “Very High” reference photo. Once in the deep chasm of this canyon, the wind and spray can make it very cold, so it is advisable to avoid unnecessary immersion until after you have progressed below the final big pitch. As of 2021, there were no unavoidable hydraulics.

Checkpoint (bridge)[edit]

The checkpoint photo just upstream of the bridge is not indicative of the actual flow in the canyon because several hundred feet upstream of the bridge checkpoint, Deadhorse Creek bifurcates, with part of the flow going north to the North Fork Nooksack River, and part going east into Wells Creek. This is not indicated on most maps but is shown on the Ropewiki map. Anticipate the flow in the canyon to be approximately 3-4 times that of the flow at the bridge checkpoint, since the majority of the flow is diverted away from the bridge.

Checkpoint (waterfall)[edit]

Once at the drop-in, use the waterfall checkpoint photo to accurately assess the flow in the canyon.

Drainage basin[edit]

The upper elevations of the drainage basin, below Chowder Ridge, include semi-permanent ice and snow of the western reaches of Hadley Glacier. The north aspects in this area hold snow/ice late into the season, or don't fully melt out - depending on the year. The high elevation of the drainage basin, typically massive snowpack, and generally north-facing aspect combine to make this a mid-to-late season canyoning objective with a relatively narrow window of opportunity.

  • Area: 5.7 mi2 / 14.7 km2
  • Max elevation: 6,890 ft / 2,100 m

Approach[edit]

Drive[edit]

From WA-542 Mount Baker Highway traveling east, turn right (southwest) on Glacier Creek Rd/NF-39. Make an immediate left turn (east) on Deadhorse Creek Rd/NF-37 (gravel, easily passable in passenger car as of Sep 2017) and drive 8 miles to the bridge over Deadhorse Creek. Parking space for several vehicles is located on the right shoulder, just before the bridge.

Google Maps directions to Parking (exit)

Shuttle[edit]

To reach the approach parking, continue up NF-37 for another 2.4 miles. At the fourth switchback, there is space on the shoulder for one or two vehicles.

Google Maps directions to Parking (approach).

Hike[edit]

The approach is fairly flat, a bit brushy in places, and quite mild overall. Push through some unfriendly vegetation near the road for a short distance, then enjoy the pine needle and moss laden ground underneath the forest canopy. The remainder of the approach includes a marshy meadow and some bushwhacking through tall blueberry bushes before reaching the creek bed. The drop-in is just downstream of a small cascade with a deep pool. This is the reference photo. Compare flow before suiting up at the gravel beach here.

Descent[edit]

WARNING: This canyon is very committing.

  • Waterflow is typically high - even in Aug/Sep.
  • Team communication in Crack of Doom is very difficult.
  • Beyond the the first 100 ft / 30m pitch, escape may not be possible.
  • Satellite communicators may have difficulty acquiring satellites due to the narrowness and sheer vertical walls.

Descent details[edit]

DCL = Down Canyon Left, DCR = Down Canyon Right

Obstacle Distance Anchor
Stream walk 15 minutes
Includes a couple short downclimbs around small cascades.
Downclimb or rappel 20 ft / 6 m
The first waterfall can be downclimbed via small ledges on DCL leading to a jammed log, sloping down into the pool below. Carefully slide down the log.
R1 15 ft / 5 m log
to reach the R2 bolt station
R2 100 ft / 30 m DCR - 2 bolt station
  • Option 1: Descend DCR, mostly out of the flow for the upper portion. Descend to a large ledge, around the nose half way down, and then further DCR. The rope will contact a sharp edge near the top, so it is recommended to creep the rope.
  • Option 2: Descend in the center of the flow. It is pushy until half way down where the canyoner goes behind the curtain of water.
  • Note: A rope was core shot here during the first descent—even though it was crept for all but the last person. Core shots from basalt in this region are typically a result of horizontal rope movement across a sharp edge. One mitigation strategy is for the last person to descend in the flow to avoid the sharp edge. It may also be possible to install a deviation anchor some distance below the primary anchor to further protect the rope (video demonstration).
R3 15 ft / 5 m DCR - 1 bolt station
R4 35 ft / 11 m DCL - boulder pinch
Ahead, the canyon narrows into a deep crack about 20 ft / 7 m wide. You are approaching Crack of Doom.
R5 150 ft / 46 m DCL - 2 bolt station
Crack of Doom Pitch 1
The flow is split into roughly-equal halves. From the pitch head, descend through the flow, behind the curtain of water, and into a large and deep cavern. Stunning! From bottom of the cavern, descend a slanting ledge the final 50 ft / 30 m in heavy spray. The pitch ends in a waist-deep pool about 30 ft / 10 m long with howling, mist-filled wind. The rope pull is a concern, as the force of the water can push the rope end onto a ledge about 30 ft / 10 m above the pool. It is recommended to pull from a stance as far out as possible, near the R6 bolt station, and give a firm pull at the moment the rope end slides through the anchor.
R6 150 ft / 46 m DCR - 2 bolt station
Crack of Doom Pitch 2
  • Option 1: It is possible to stay out of the forceful water much of the way by walking down a fin on DCR. The fin is separated from the wall by a narrow crack about 8 in / 20 cm wide. Avoid foot entrapment in this crack. About 50 ft / 15 m from the bottom, gravity forces the canyoner to the slab in the center and through a heavy shower. The flow is dispersed here and not very pushy until the very bottom.
  • Option 2: Transition to DCL in the first 20 ft / 7 m to a standing platform, and maintain the DCL line all the way down to the bottom. Part way down, there is a large cave behind the flow that provides a few moments of respite before proceeding down a crack about 4 ft / 1.3 m wide. This crack is full of forceful white water, visibility is poor, and careful foot placement is necessary. This is not recommended unless the flow is light.

Below Crack of Doom, the canyon widens and includes mostly small rappels and downclimbs.

R7 40 ft / 12 m DCR - boulder wrap
R8 30 ft / 10 m DCL - pinch
R9 35 ft / 12 m DCL - log

Exit[edit]

Follow the creek downstream about 20 minutes until it bifurcates (splits). The left fork (DCL) leads to the bridge and parking area. The right fork goes to a separate drainage (Wells Creek), so take heed! Downstream of the split, a fairly clear path is available in the forest DCR all the way to the road.

Red tape[edit]

No permits or passes are required (the parking locations are not at a trailhead).

Beta sites[edit]

Waterfall websites:

Trip reports and media[edit]

Group of 3 took us 5.5 hours car-to-car. The flow was slightly higher than in the “Very High” reference photo, yet the 3 big rappels all had relatively forgiving lines. We all agreed this was more like “High” flow. The first descent team probably spent considerable time equipping the canyon and were more fearful of the unknown. As it is now, we encountered 3 bolt stations, all in good condition, did 2 retrievable anchors and replaced 4 pieces of webbing. We brought a drill but did not see any reason it would be needed. Standard creeping and rope management skills seemed to make rope pulls and core shot a non-issue, or we just got lucky. What a stunning gorge! With walls hundreds of feet high and very close together. The three big rappels had our FULL ATTENTION. Kudos to the first descent to crew.

Background[edit]

Geology[edit]

The rocks in this section of Deadhorse Creek are of the Nooksack Formation. Based on the USGS geologic map, the upper section of the route is composed of argillite and sandstone (lithic-volcanic), and the Wells Creek Volcanic Member (dacite, andesite) begins at the Crack of Doom.

Geologic Map of the Mount Baker 30- by 60-Minute Quadrangle, Washington

First Descent[edit]

Deadhorse Creek was first descended on 2 September 2017 by Michelle Nilles, Jesse Houser, Dan Yeisley, and Tiffanie Lin. Luca Chiarabini had planned to be there, and in a multitude of ways, he was. Many thanks to Aaron Young and Bryan Swan for providing the waterfall photos and documentation for this spectacular set of falls.

Accommodations[edit]

Dispersed camping is available at several nearby locations, although the area is popular and campsites may be full on weekends and holidays in peak season.

There are a couple nearby national forest campgrounds:

Lodging can also be found in Glacier.

Dining[edit]

Wake 'n Bakery in Glacier has great coffee and a hearty breakfast. North Fork Brewery in Deming is a local favorite for pizza, beer, and cider.

Cell Service[edit]

As of 2017, there is no cell service along Mount Baker Highway, so plan accordingly. Graham's Store in Glacier has WiFi, although it is limited/intermittent, and some devices have trouble connecting.

Credits

Information provided by automated processes. KML map by (unknown). Main photo by (unknown). Authors are listed in chronological order.

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