Deimos Canyon
| Rating: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| | Difficulty:3A IV (v3a1 IV) Raps:17-23, max ↨125ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Location: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Condition Reports: | 12 Feb 2021
"Although all of us had planned to do Deimos before the 30JAN2021 fatality at R3, this trip became an investigation for me as to what happened to my fr |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Best season: | Nov-Mar (avg for this region)
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Regions: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
36.1641, -116.7463
Search nearby locations
Weather forecast
Waterflow
Nearby photos
Introduction
WARNING: as of 30JAN2021 there has been major rockfall in Upper Deimos. The "rubble room" (rappel 3) floor has collapsed as a landslide over the drop and rockfall danger persists. This part of the canyon is not safe for travel. There is a work-around (see rappel 3 description below). Lower Deimos via the Sneak route is ok.
This is BluuGnome.com favorite Death Valley canyon, and several other seasoned Death Valley canyoneers agree this is one of the best canyons in Death Valley. The steep approach affords beautiful views of the salt encrusted Badwater Basin below.
The approach to the canyon has exposed third class scrambling over talus, scree, and crumbling rocks. In the first 1000 feet of climbing, there are few unexposed places to rest, and the slope is around 100% grade. If you are not confident with exposure, or are uncomfortable with heights and the potential for rock to crumble under you on a steep, loose slope, this may not be the canyon for you. Good route finding is necessary on the first part of the approach to avoid ending up in an adjacent ridge or canyon with a difficult traverse to get back on track. Teams should be spaced so that no one is left behind. A handline might be necessary to help anyone who gets stuck.
The canyon itself is narrow, with rock smoother than in the other ranges. The rappels listed below is not necessarily the number all teams will encounter depending on climbing skills. There are many fun downclimbs that can be done with a strong climber and partner assist, but less skilled climbers may require a meat anchor. Long sleeves or elbow padding are very helpful in the skinnier downclimbs.
Approach
Descent
Waypoints in the KML map contain detailed descriptions of all the rappels (courtesy of BluuGnome.com).
The rappels numbered here match with the .kml. The average group is likely to have approximately 7 more rappels interspersed and labeled as "down-climbs".
Rap 1: 65' (Anchored from a boulder about 30' back. Rappel is about 30')
Rap 2: 25'
Rap 3: 120' New Anchor 12FEB2021: 40 feet of rope lassoing the giant chockstone boulder's horn. Approaching this anchor is a bit exposed; can be done with a fixed/rappel line from further up the canyon. From this anchor the rappel is safe, directly off the boulder and down a clean face. This anchor can be rebuilt with 30 to 40 feet of webbing in place of rope around the horn.
Rap 3: Previous 95' from a under a large boulder "the rubble room" anchored off a chock stone DCR. The rocks in this room slid out (landslide) on 30JAN2021 and are still unstable. Avoid this room altogether! Rappel is a partial free-hang. Rappel length may be longer if a different anchor is use. (Scenic rappel)
Rap 4: 25'
Rap 5: 90' There is a ledge about 5 feet down before the rappel goes into a free-hang.
After this rappel there is a section of down-climbing that some may want to rappel
Rap 6: 35'
Rap 7: 50' Through a "rabbit hole". Rappel is a partial free-hang.
Rap 8: 35' Two-stage rappel.
Rap 9: 8' Free-hang and therefore not a down-climb.
Rap 10: 50'
Rap 11: 25'
After this there is a lot of wash walking and scrambling.
Rap 12: 125' Partial free-hang.
Rap 13: 50'
Rap 14: 50' (35' rappel anchored 15' back)
Rap 15: 30'
Rap 16: 25'
Rap 17: 35' A lot of pinch points for rope to get stuck. Be careful.
Exit
Red tape
Beta sites
-
BluuGnome.com : Deimos Canyon - Super Amazing Map : Deimos Canyon
- Super Amazing Map : Diemos Canyon
Trip reports and media
Death Valley NP press release: Fatality in Deimos Canyon
FIRST DESCENT TRIP REPORT MARCH 28, 2009, led by Rick Kent:
FULL ROUTE DESCENT 2014
Background
RICK KENT DISCOVERY - PART OF THE SUPPORT TEAM AT FIRST DESCENT 3-28-09 - (SCOTT SWANEY) - I HAVE MORE BETA & PHOTOS, TO ADD FOR THE 1ST Descent exploration mission. See trip above
First descent, 28 March 2009: Yannick Chaigneau, Mike Cressman, Lori Curry, Rick Kent, Tom Kitta, Shirley Lam, Jeff Reperant, Scott Swaney. (Alphabetical order.)
