Hung Jury
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| | Difficulty:3A III (v3a1 III) Raps:2-5, max ↨220ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Rock type:Sandstone | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 21 Dec 2021
"a Technical fun romp on courthouse. Big rappel is 200. Anchors good. handline is in good shape . |
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| Best season: | Spring & Fall
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34.8006, -111.7533
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Introduction[edit]
Introduction
The Jury is still out in this new adventure route.
Although short, there is no lack of scenery along the way and a series of obstacles make this more of adventure route than your typical canyon.
A fun and more challenging short adventure on Sedona's striking Courthouse butte. This route ascends an easy 5th class climbing route believed to be the oldest First Ascent in the Sedona area (1930's). Ruin cites are visible on the lower ledges, and the views from the summit are among the best in the area.
The highlight of this route is the large wine glass shaped alcove on the South Eastern face.
Tag the summit and sign the register, before heading back to the anchors and starting the garden traverse.
The rappel out of the Alcove ranks with the best 200's in the Sedona area.
Time rating varies depending on if you tag this epic summit which is highly reccomended.
Approach[edit]
Elevation includes summit scramble.
Download KML.
Take courthouse loop trail to courthouse butte as there are a variety of ways to get there. Once on the trail head toward the carved out Southern face of Courthouse butte.
Follow kml track and faint social trail up gully, across ledges, and to the base of the mini arete feature just left of the black cave. Soak up some shade in the black cave, and get ready, your adventure starts here!
Just 50 yards past the start of the climb is a small ruin set. this is less than a 5 minute detour and worth checking out. Please Do Not touch, lean, or stand on artifacts.
Start the scramble up the first crux, about 45 feet of easy 4th class up a small ramp just left of the black cave.. There is a bolt at the top of this scramble that could be used to belay or haul gear.
Work your way up and further into the bowl up canyon. Follow the obvious social trail into the bowl and up to where you traverse to the last 5th class section. This section can be protected with 1 #1 cam and 2 quick draws. The crux of the whole climb is 2 mantle moves past 2 bolts to bomber anchors.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105812335/central-south-rib
As of 3/29/2021: There has been new blue climbing grade handline fixed to the anchors.
From anchors scramble up easy 15' chimney and head to turn off close to garden traverse. Leave packs at turn off if you decide to scramble to the summit. True summit is up right/east, has some cool mini caves, and the summit log in a tin in the rock stack. The views here are phenomenal. Snack up and head back down to your packs.
After tagging the summit start the garden traverse across the vegetation band staying high. Tip toe through the garden as all vegetation is very fragile and untouched.
Please be mindful of the preservation of this area, and possible hikers below. Try to maintain minimal impact on the terrain, and call out any rope tosses or rock fall.
We ask that you do not touch, stand, or lean on any ruin walls. This includes photos of canyoneers leaning on the walls to pose for photos. This is highly frowned upon.
Work your way to R1 and enjoy!
Descent[edit]
Traverse the garden ledge to r1.
R1. 105' into alcove off tree. Take crack ldc to slickrock.
R2. 220' 2 stage past first ledge to the bottom.
Rock quality after r2 is poor of you head left down canyon to bypass the next 2 short drops. It could be advantageous to head right down canyon about 75 yards after r2 and either fiddle stick both small drops, or set an anchor at the top of the first drop. This appears to be on the watercourse and has better rock quality.
Soon you will face a steep drop with no anchor option and the trail in view. Cut up and right down canyon and around corner, then stem off tree to downclimb to next ledge.
Next you can either hug the rock face staying high right and exit here, or do one last optional 110' rappel down a chute and into the crack.
After r2 Exit rdc.
There are two more optional rappels after r2.
r3. off pitons over black cave. 50'
r4. after r3. on left off bush. 105'.
Exit[edit]
After r2 there are many ways down, but they are in the direction you came.
r3. piton rapp can be downclimbed, the way you came up but is a fun short rappel.
r4. can be bypassed to reconnect with approach trail.
connect with main trail.
Head back the way you came. Leave no trace.
Red tape[edit]
Purchase a red rock pass at trailhead.
Beta sites[edit]
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105812335/central-south-rib
Background[edit]
First Descent Eric Moorcroft & Forest Burke 3/29/2021
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10101788668705752&id=38100945
