Inconceivable Canyon
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| | Difficulty:4A III (v4a1 III) Raps:9-12, max ↨201ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 15 Feb 2025
"Pretty neat route with great rock quality. Tons of sculpted smooth limestone throughout. Most rappels are sheer, plenty of fun solid downclimbs.. |
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| Best season: | Nov-Mar (avg for this region)
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36.5848, -117.2743
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Introduction[edit]
Approach[edit]
The drive in should be easily "Subaruable" under normal conditions, but small sandy sections and small sand dunes are likely, with occasional rocks. A car carefully driven may make it, but getting stuck or hitting a rock could be possible. Park immediately off the road or you will be ticketed.
Descent[edit]
UPDATE FROM TRIP 12-17-23 - BIG HANGING POTHOLE FILLED UP WITH SAND (R 10). And next small pothole with small arch anchor placement (R 11) is buried in deep sand and not useable anymore without a lot of digging *
The waypoints in the KML map contain detailed descriptions of all the rappels (courtesy of Bluugnome.com). 2016-02-13 Update to the R09(BN R05) 285' rappel: there were two anchors were added 12/2015 and the canyon can now be descended with a 200' rope. Check that the anchor exist & if there is adequate material at the ledge if an anchor needs to be built. The Bluugnome beta has not been updated to reflect this.
Rappels 1 to 12 (BN indicates Bluugnome points as reference). These anchor change all the time & so will the rappel counts.
R01 20 knot chalk RDC, or down climb ledge RDC (
R02 180 (BN R01) cairn back 10'
R03 30 cairn 5' back
R04 20 knot chalk back RDC
R05 85 (BNR02)
R06 20 cairn 5' back
R07 20 (BN R03) then dC chute 8'
R08 40 (BN R04)
R09 90 (BN R05 285') multi-pitch
R10 201 (BN R05 285')bottom, Pothole walkaround RDC ledge *
R11 175 (BN R06), single anchor solution pocket arch (-dm) *
R12 170 (BN R07) nut-cable (-sw) in crack & webbing pocket
Note, several anchors may be missing as they are listed here, but are clearly down climbs. Ando the nut mentioned in R12 is missing. This is now a cairn.
Exit[edit]
Note that if you want to run a 2nd canyon with Buttercup or Humperdinck you can exit up right from Buttercup before the junction with Humperdinck. We went at 36.582361, -117.269612, but there is a 2nd option just below at the white rock that is probably easier. Follow the gully back up towards the ridge. We climbed a 15' wall at about Class 3+ near the junction with the steep canyon that goes straight to the ridge. Instead, turn left up the low angle gully, climbing a short 7' step that some may want a small assist on, then turn right up talus quickly back up to the ridge and route. Midway point- 36.579735, -117.269786. We made it to Inconceivable in 1hr and largely in the shade. Total for the day was 8:20 with a small group and above average speed.
Red tape[edit]
Note that there is no camping on this road. It is heavily patrolled at least once a day and the rangers check aggressively to see if you're camping.
Beta sites[edit]
BluuGnome.com : Inconceivable Canyon- Super Amazing Map : Inconceivable Canyon
Trip reports and media[edit]
Descent trip 12-2-12:
