Purgamal
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| | Difficulty:3A IV PG (v4a1 IV) Raps:16+, max ↨110ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:Required 37.8 mi Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Best season: | Nov-Mar
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36.2682, -116.7397
36.2210, -116.7266
36.2635, -116.7818
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Introduction[edit]
Gorgeous marbled rock throughout the middle and lower sections with incredible colors. Many of the rappels can be down climbed for those who are into that sort of thing. For most the rappels are all very well constructed natural anchors. Most are cairns built by Mike Cressman, created for easy inspection and repair. There are a few nice rock chock rappels as well. On the exit there is a side drainage with a remarkably tall hoodoo (Maybe 8 feet?). You can take a trail over to it and then rejoin the canyon from the drainage below.
Approach[edit]
From the junction of highways 178 (Badwater Road) and 190, drive about 10.7 miles east on highway 190 to the turnoff for Dante's View. Follow the signs to Dante's View, which is another 13.1 miles.
From the Dantes View parking lot, start hiking north on the unsigned but obvious trail up the ridge. After 3.0 miles, fork left off the trail, continuing north on the ridge for a couple-hundred feet to the top of a small hump. This is the top of "Erebus Ridge," a west-facing ridge that is the approach for canyons Typhon4, Erebus, Purgatory, and Purgamal, and an alternate approach for Abysmal.
Turn left and head west-northwest down Erebus Ridge for about .6 miles, descending about 900 feet. This spot is not very obvious, except the terrain to the right (north) finally looks reasonable, and there are now (after 14 years of canyoneering traffic) even signs of human foot traffic.
Head down the slope to the north, into the drainage. This is an upper drainage of Typhon4.
Head downcanyon in Typhon4 for a couple-hundred feet and then exit up the slope to the right (north).
At the top of the ridge, turn right (northeast) and contour over to the next drainage. This drainage is the top of Erebus Canyon.
Continue north-northwest for about a quarter mile, over rolling terrain but gradually losing elevation. You will cross a broad drainage north of Erebus Canyon. This drainage leads into Erebus and is not the route to Purgamal. Continue a bit further and turn left into the drainage that is a full quarter-mile beyond Erebus. This drainage is the top of Purgatory Canyon.
Head downcanyon in Purgatory for about a quarter mile. Exit up the slope to the right (north) just before it becomes too steep to do so.
Continue northwest for less than a quarter mile, aiming for a small orange-colored hill. Drop northwest off the hill into the drainage. That is the top of Purgamal Canyon.
Descent[edit]
Rap 1: 47ft. From rock chock.
Rap 2: 95ft. From large rock chock in marble, about 30 feet back from a drop of about 65 feet. (30 + 65 = 95.)
Rap 3: 45ft. From rock horn.
Rap 4: 65ft. From boulder.
Rap 5: 55ft, 2-stage. From boulder.
Rap 6: 55ft. From rope around boulder.
Rap 7: 65ft. From rock chock under boulder.
Rap 8: 80ft. From rock horn.
Rap 9: 45ft. From rock chock under boulder.
Rap 10: 25ft. Meat anchor from pothole; then shitty downclimb for last person.
Rap 11: 65ft, 2-stage. From cairn.
Rap 11b: 30ft. From cairn. Or done as second stage of rap 11.
Rap 12: 45ft. From rope around rock horn.
Rap 13: 110ft, 2-stage. From rock chock.
Rap 14: 60ft. From cairn.
Rap 15: 35ft. From rock arch.
Rap 16: No length info; downclimb on the right was used. The second part of this downclimb is referred to as “Grim Crawl,” à la Shenanigans; although, the Purgamal version is maybe mostly a problem for big guys (plus backpack).
Rappel length is rope length, not drop height. All rappel lengths are approximate. Most are only estimated, not actually measured. Numbers provided as a rough guide only. Max rap length of 110 feet is an approximation.
Exit[edit]
About 1.0 mile of downhill alluvial-fan walking to the road. Park in the right spot, and the drainage pattern of the fan will kind-of lead you to the car. Kind of.
Red tape[edit]
Beta sites[edit]
Trip reports and media[edit]
Background[edit]
Mike Cressman discovered and named the canyon in December 2020.
First descent, 05 December 2020: Mike Cressman, Justin Ibershoff, Rick Kent, Ali Miller, Janice Muscio, Sarah Perlotto, Josh Rodriguez, Alexandra Rothermel, Tim Seavy. (Alphabetical order.)
Possible/probable second descent, 16 January 2022: Mike Cressman, Brian Monroy, Danielle Monroy, Sri Rangarajan, Leonie Sherman, Abby Wines. (Alphabetical order.)