SGR Slot
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| | Difficulty:3A III R (v5a1 III) Raps:5-6, max ↨95ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:4WD Rock type:Sandstone | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 7 May 2022
"Approach was much more challenging than expected. We did not bring nearly enough water and ran out by the top of the approach, leaving us incredibly t |
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| Best season: | Fall, Spring
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38.4931, -109.4921
38.4635, -109.4984
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WaterflowIntroduction
SGR is the only intermediate level canyon in the Moab area, Moab's only R rated canyon, and one of only two canyons in Moab with noteworthy downclimbs. It is well worth the trip to do once, but not a good choice for people new to exposed stemming or downclimbing. The canyon features three distinct technical areas separated by open walking. The R rating is for the crux silo crossing and downclimb to reach the 2nd rappel; the silo crossing is not very wide and is featured; it rates PG for difficulty, R for consequences. The route also requires several exposed Class 4 climbing moves on the approach, the most exposed near the top which is about a 30 foot pitch.
This route has a high pay-to-play ratio. The drive in from the highway is almost 8 miles on dirt roads and takes about 45 minutes with the last mile or so very bumpy with some minor technical maneuvers. The approach hike, while very scenic, takes at least 2 1/2 hours with no mishaps. The technical section is sublime with a hidden Bombay deep in the dark chasm and another deep narrows further on with several good downclimbs.
If the anchor in the slot section just after the crux needs to be replaced, it would require a very exposed and very difficult move. A highly skilled climber would be needed. A more easily attainable horn slightly further on may be the safer option if you had to replace the anchor.
Approach
MUST FOLLOW THE GPX TRACK PRECISELY OR THE APPROACH COULD TAKE HOURS LONGER. Must at least use waypoints. There is almost no chance you will find the drop-in using only a topo map and narrative.
Descent
There are 3 technical sections seperated with open walking sections. The first section involves a nice downclimb sequence dropping 50 feet until a drop off is reached. This is the 1st rappel, 75 feet off a boulder wrap on the left, dropping down crack. Very nice! To get to the 1st rap, from the RTR waypoint for top of canyon, go west to the next breakdown and downclimb, turn left at the cairn through a hallway and you will see the narrows providing the downclimb sequence.
After a 10 minute open walking section the 2nd technical section emerges. This is the first stemming bit which runs about 100 feet long, crosses a silo and then a short downclimb to a wide ledge on the left where a couple solution pockets provide a handline to the next anchor. The 2nd rap is anchored from a small tree high on canyon left and is 85 feet. A stunning rappel into a dark chamber with free hang at the bottom. Once at the bottom a glimpse of a Bombay slot can be seen up canyon. Take the time to explore this Bombay slot. Moving on from the bottom of this chasm is some easy stemming and downclimbs, followed by another 10 minute open walking section.
R3 is a short 30 foot rappel from a boulder on the left and deposits you into a pool, likely dry. If the pool has water, there is a dry option up and over the left. Soon after R4 is reached. If doing this rappel straight ahead, you will encounter an unavoidable pool which is too wide to bridge. You will get wet here. To avoid this pool, from the R4 anchor, walk up left about 100 feet and Fiddle off a Juniper 70 feet to the dry sandy wash at the bottom. R5 is from a tree on right dropping 75 feet. Right after this is a nice 30 foot downclimb with a pool at the bottom that usually can be easily bridged over. This is followed by an open walking section.
The final pour off gives you the option to do another rappel, about 90 feet, or simply go right to downclimb the gully you climbed up on the approach.
Exit
Follow the route you came in on. It is easy wash walking at the bottom of a wide canyon with lots of clean slickrock, until the climb up at the end. The climb up is made easier if you find the intermittent use-trail.
Red tape
None
Beta sites
Climb-Utah.com : SGR Slot - Moab- Super Amazing Map : SGR Slot
Moab Canyoneering Book by Derek A. Wolfe : SGR Slot- RoadTripRyan.com : SGR Canyon
Trip reports and media
- http://canyoneeringutah.blogspot.com/2014/11/sgr-canyon.html
- Climb Utah SGR Slot Video
- Candition.com : SGR Slot
Background
SGR = Shit Got Real