The Squeeze
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| | Difficulty:4B IV (v4a2 IV) Raps:16, max ↨99ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle:None Vehicle:4WD - High Clearance | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 12 Apr 2025
"Great day in the squeeze, way lower water conditions than I had seen it previously or expected given recent rain. Crux keeper has a green webbing trav |
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| Best season: | Spring through Fall
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38.5445, -110.9509
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WaterflowIntroduction[edit]
Often referred to the big brother of Cable Canyon, The Squeeze is one of the best and most difficult canyons in the Swell. If you are thinking about doing The Squeeze you should be very familiar and comfortable with relatively long approaches, pothole escapes, and be very proficient building sand anchors with little to no material for cairns. This canyon is conservatively bolted, allowing one to build natural anchors where-ever possible but cruising through rappels that would be exceedingly challenging for natural solutions.
Approach[edit]
The recommended approach to the Squeeze is via Hidden Splendour. Sporting a relatively often used backcountry runway, copious camping, and stellar views, you can't go wrong setting up for the night here to get an early start the next morning.
More information on the approach to come but most vehicles SUV or greater of clearance should have no problem getting to rim above Muddy Creek (next to the runway). Although dirt, the road in is probably the best graded dirt road I have ever driven on. A few small rock shelves ~2-4km from the campground wouldn't even be on the radar for an SUV but would likely be challenging for a sedan.
From the rim above Muddy Creek, hike (or drive if you have clearance) down to the signed kiosk at the bottom of the road. Follow a well worn path along the edge of the north side of the cliffs. Many GPX logs follow the river which necessitate multiple crossing. An alternatate (and dryer) approach is to instead follow the cliff band until the well worn trail turns into an old 4x4 road. Either way about 30 minutes in you will come to a bunkhouse and shortly thereafter a barb-wire fence spanning the entire width of the canyon. The south bank of the canyon has a route "gate" that can easily be passed through, though it seemed like there are several places where jumping the fence would be relatively straightforward. At this point the canyon walls will look a thousand or more feet above you. Follow muddy creek until you see the one and only breakdown on the south wall, with a towering band of Navajo Sandstone (White layer above the Red) above it. Follow the cairns if they are present, otherwise just follow the easiest path until you are at the base of the cliff below the Navajo sandstone. The vert eases off there as you follow the rockly ledge to the south and then curve around to the south as you continue to follow the cliff band. Continue to follow the cliffs to the south until the obvious canyon appears. Follow the canyon to the east and put your harnesses on and prepare for the imminent first of many many rappels.
Descent[edit]
Exit[edit]
The last rappel from the canyon puts you back out ~100 meters from Muddy Creek. From muddy creek either turn West (Right) to head back towards Hidden Splendour.
Red tape[edit]
Beta sites[edit]
RoadTripRyan.com : The Squeeze- Super Amazing Map : The Squeeze
- Climb-Utah.com : The Squeeze
- CanyonCollective.com : The Squeeze from the top via Miners Trail
- CanyoneeringUSA.com : Lower Squeeze from Muddy Creek
Trip reports and media[edit]
- Steve Allen on Canyon Tales : Early Descent of the Squeeze
- The Squeeze 2019-09-28 Stav is Lost
- Climb Utah Squeeze Video
- https://www.facebook.com/pat.winstanley.7/media_set?set=a.714460858612614.1073741916.100001461198708&type=3
- Candition.com : The Squeeze