Devil's Arch Canyon
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| | Difficulty:3A IV (v3a1 IV) Raps:9-12, max ↨205ft
Red Tape:No permit required Shuttle: Vehicle:Passenger | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Condition Reports: | 18 Feb 2024
"We did the north fork, which is not the same one that Scott Swaneys track shows. We had one total less rappel than he reported, so maybe the forks ar |
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| Best season: | Nov-Mar (avg for this region)
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36.7874, -117.1070
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Introduction
More elevation gain in the approach than most people want to do. It was a pretty canyon.
Approach
Setting a car shuttle saves a little walking, but is not necessary.
Park at about 100' elevation on shoulder of North Highway, a paved road. Walk up alluvial fan, then up a prominent ridge. You will have first view into Devils Arch Canyon at 2,900' elevation. At around 3,500' you traverse a big scree slope on left, which is most easily done by going to the top just below the cliff band. At this point, the ridge changes direction, from generally heading east to generally heading north. Somewhere between 4,000' and 4,300', find the best-looking route down into the canyon.
These directions take you into a slightly different fork than what the GPS track shows, which is a longer approach. We don't think we saw the Devil's Arch, so maybe that is only seen by going the route Scott did. The info before is for the fork reached by this slightly shorter approach.
Descent
3,800' - first downclimb
R1 about 100 feet from cairn at 3,750' elevation.
R2 about 100 feet from high pinch point on canyon right.
Optional R3 about 25 feet from pinch point on orange rock on canyon right. Could be downclimbed.
R4 about 20 feet from big rock on left.
Confluence with fork that Scott did, which is what the GPS track shows. At 3,200'.
R5 two-stage 95 feet, from pinch on canyon left.
We think there is likely a sneak route from the ridge down to either just above or below R5. Someone should investigate this.
Optional R6 40 feet from cairn anchor. Can be bypassed on left.
R7 exactly 200 feet, if webbing extended to the edge. Anchored from a medium-size rock behind something that is almost a pinch point on canyon right. Really beautiful rappel. Akward beach whale start. This rappel is at 2,700' elevation.
R8 25 feet from pinch point.
Another confluence. It looks like there's a fork that is a ridiculously longer approach than what Scott or we did, but from a distance it also appears to have an enticing large polished dryfall.
R9 30 feet from pinch point. Beautiful white and pink rock in the rappel.
Long walking section in pretty canyon.
Partner assist over white chockstone obstacle at 2,200' elevation.
Partner assist or downclimb 12 feet, near pink rock.
Canyon opens up into a very wide wash.
R10 95 feet two-stage, anchored from a boulder. This rappel is at a S-turn in the canyon just before confluence with Inferno Canyon. At 1,850' elevation.
Confluence with Inferno Canyon (1,600').
R11 25 feet down vertical wall from a cairn anchor.
Canyon is really beautiful in this section.
Optional R12 20 feet from chockstone on a ledge on canyon right. Could be down-climbed.
Canyon mouth at 900'.
Exit
Walk down wash to car, takes about 1 hour.
Red tape
Beta sites
Super Amazing Map : Devil's Arch
Trip reports and media
FIRST DESCENT TRIP 2-4-12:
https://www.facebook.com/scott.swaney/media_set?set=a.10150648951987930.458183.668617929&type=3
Background
Originally explored by Scott Swaney & team on 02-04-12